SY-1193
Active member
Re: Will not start
I read through this whole post.
You really have some good people here giving you good things to try.
I don't know if you are just skimming through or if you are really trying these suggestions.
Just my impression from your replies.
Let me post a few bits of information for you to remember here.
BACK TO BASICS TO BEGIN:
A good starting battery is a must! I read in one of your posts that your battery was weak. A battery within spec. dips to somewhere around 10-9v momentarily when in good condition because of the amp draw from the starter. Remember you cannot tell the health of a battery from the voltage alone you must test amperage (CCA - Cold Cranking Amps)of the battery to check the battery. A weak battery will dip below 6v when the starter is engaged and that is where the ECM cuts off at 6v and your truck won't start because the ECM cuts out and it has no brain. This is a computer controlled vehicle and until the battery is right nothing else will help you.
FIRST: I suggest taking your battery out and taking it to an auto parts store and have it tested for CCA. If it tests good read on...
Everyone is pounding you with ECM as the problem. Have you noticed? Read the posts again for yourself. They are on the right track.
You were asked if you had any codes. Your reply:
NEXT: With your ignition switch (key) in the on position without the engine running. I would like you to use a simple paper clip bent into a tight "U" shape to jump the two upper right hand holes of the OBD1 connector. You should get a code 12 which is: one blink <pause> two blinks of the check engine light on your dash. This sequence should repeat itself over and over as long as the paper clip is in there and the ignition key is on. If there is any other codes present they will blink after the 12 sequence and you should note them here. Code 12 tells you most likely your ECM is good. Many scanners ignore the 12 sequence and just show you the "other codes". The paper clip works for this when a scanner will not.
If you have a Code 12 it is not a problem that just means your ECM is working and your ECM is in TEST mode the intercooler pump also runs in this mode if you have one on the lower intercooler radiator.
NEXT: Remove the 28 pin grey ribbon cable that connects your ECM Carrier to the OSTRICH. I want you to test this ribbon cable. You will need two pins and a test meter with continuity. Place a pin in one end and one at the other end of each wire of the cable because your meter probes are not small enough the pins will go in easy. Take a meter set to "Continuity" and test each wire all 28 for continuity (a good connection). If you don't have a meter. You could for $9. + $6.40 shipping get a new cable from Moates.net here: http://www.moates.net/emuc2818-emulation-cable-28pin-18inch-p-64.html?cPath=32 You could also order the 6 inch version of this cable in a 32pin and it is less likely to be pinched or pulled because of the shorter length. http://www.moates.net/emuc3206-emulation-cable-32pin-6inch-p-168.html?cPath=32 if the length is not an issue. (28 or 32 pin both will fit in your ostrich).
This cable has very small wires and they frequently get pulled or pinched and they loose connection which could be why you have intermittent running.
AGAIN start with a good battery and do these checks in order. :tup:
I read through this whole post.
You really have some good people here giving you good things to try.
I don't know if you are just skimming through or if you are really trying these suggestions.
Just my impression from your replies.
Let me post a few bits of information for you to remember here.
BACK TO BASICS TO BEGIN:
A good starting battery is a must! I read in one of your posts that your battery was weak. A battery within spec. dips to somewhere around 10-9v momentarily when in good condition because of the amp draw from the starter. Remember you cannot tell the health of a battery from the voltage alone you must test amperage (CCA - Cold Cranking Amps)of the battery to check the battery. A weak battery will dip below 6v when the starter is engaged and that is where the ECM cuts off at 6v and your truck won't start because the ECM cuts out and it has no brain. This is a computer controlled vehicle and until the battery is right nothing else will help you.
FIRST: I suggest taking your battery out and taking it to an auto parts store and have it tested for CCA. If it tests good read on...
Everyone is pounding you with ECM as the problem. Have you noticed? Read the posts again for yourself. They are on the right track.
You were asked if you had any codes. Your reply:
NEXT: With your ignition switch (key) in the on position without the engine running. I would like you to use a simple paper clip bent into a tight "U" shape to jump the two upper right hand holes of the OBD1 connector. You should get a code 12 which is: one blink <pause> two blinks of the check engine light on your dash. This sequence should repeat itself over and over as long as the paper clip is in there and the ignition key is on. If there is any other codes present they will blink after the 12 sequence and you should note them here. Code 12 tells you most likely your ECM is good. Many scanners ignore the 12 sequence and just show you the "other codes". The paper clip works for this when a scanner will not.
If you have a Code 12 it is not a problem that just means your ECM is working and your ECM is in TEST mode the intercooler pump also runs in this mode if you have one on the lower intercooler radiator.
NEXT: Remove the 28 pin grey ribbon cable that connects your ECM Carrier to the OSTRICH. I want you to test this ribbon cable. You will need two pins and a test meter with continuity. Place a pin in one end and one at the other end of each wire of the cable because your meter probes are not small enough the pins will go in easy. Take a meter set to "Continuity" and test each wire all 28 for continuity (a good connection). If you don't have a meter. You could for $9. + $6.40 shipping get a new cable from Moates.net here: http://www.moates.net/emuc2818-emulation-cable-28pin-18inch-p-64.html?cPath=32 You could also order the 6 inch version of this cable in a 32pin and it is less likely to be pinched or pulled because of the shorter length. http://www.moates.net/emuc3206-emulation-cable-32pin-6inch-p-168.html?cPath=32 if the length is not an issue. (28 or 32 pin both will fit in your ostrich).
This cable has very small wires and they frequently get pulled or pinched and they loose connection which could be why you have intermittent running.
AGAIN start with a good battery and do these checks in order. :tup:
