syclone engine build (with pics)
- Thread starter E-Rue
- Start date
oiling system changes are pretty much required at this level, and i have snapped a few pics of some things that might slip thru the cracks, but really should be addressed.
the adapter that bolts to the bottom of the block for the remote mounted oil filter is a bottleneck in the system. it really needs to be completely redesigned, but we have done the best we could modifying the stocker to remove the restrictions. if you look down into the slot on the top, and the hole drilled into the side of this adapter, you will see that very little crossectional area for flow between the vertical entry and horizontal entry exist. its a good idea to use a small carbide cutter on a long shaft, or some small chainsaw type files to remove enough material and radius the turn so that flow isnt so restricted. tried taking some pics of it, but its extreemly hard to port way down in this small hole, and even harder to photograph what we did. (you are looking in the hole where the bright light is focused)
also dont make the mistake of installing this part without the correct gasket pack from GM. (third picture) not only is there a filter type rubber ring gasket around the outside edge, but there is a gasket that goes on top that keeps oil from bypassing the remote filter.
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the adapter that bolts to the bottom of the block for the remote mounted oil filter is a bottleneck in the system. it really needs to be completely redesigned, but we have done the best we could modifying the stocker to remove the restrictions. if you look down into the slot on the top, and the hole drilled into the side of this adapter, you will see that very little crossectional area for flow between the vertical entry and horizontal entry exist. its a good idea to use a small carbide cutter on a long shaft, or some small chainsaw type files to remove enough material and radius the turn so that flow isnt so restricted. tried taking some pics of it, but its extreemly hard to port way down in this small hole, and even harder to photograph what we did. (you are looking in the hole where the bright light is focused)
also dont make the mistake of installing this part without the correct gasket pack from GM. (third picture) not only is there a filter type rubber ring gasket around the outside edge, but there is a gasket that goes on top that keeps oil from bypassing the remote filter.
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E-RUE said:
werd...i would love to replace that adapter...thats been on my mind since i reinstalled my stocker....i'm also convinced that the stock remote system drains any oil back that is higher than the oil pan when the truck sits...at least mine drained back before i relocated the filter housing below the oil pan... if they do drain back, that could be a bad thing upon startup...
Looks great!!! keep it up ....
Stangbeater
How bout it?
E-RUE said:how to delete your AC
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E, do you have a part number for that belt?
i beleive its 81.2" but thats with an underdrive crank pulley.
also keep in mind theres more than meets the eye to that swap, im planning on doing a really short write up on it. the tensioner has to be reclocked and the allignment pin hole redrilled so that it is oriented in a more counterclockwise direction by about 25deg. the AC bracket is also cut down, but the upper holes left intact, so that we could use mini heim joints to help support the weight of the turbo. ATR headers are known to crack, so we are trying to take some of the abuse off of them.
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also keep in mind theres more than meets the eye to that swap, im planning on doing a really short write up on it. the tensioner has to be reclocked and the allignment pin hole redrilled so that it is oriented in a more counterclockwise direction by about 25deg. the AC bracket is also cut down, but the upper holes left intact, so that we could use mini heim joints to help support the weight of the turbo. ATR headers are known to crack, so we are trying to take some of the abuse off of them.
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making steady progress.... mabe i can still make the savanna GA meet next month.
something you guys might not realize is that when you make braided lines they shed material, and should be cleaned at least twice before you use them. once with solvent, and again with soapy warm water. also, anything having to do with the oiling system should be absolutely SPOTLESS. any particulate will embed itself in the bearings on startup.
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something you guys might not realize is that when you make braided lines they shed material, and should be cleaned at least twice before you use them. once with solvent, and again with soapy warm water. also, anything having to do with the oiling system should be absolutely SPOTLESS. any particulate will embed itself in the bearings on startup.
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BTW did you ever find a buyer for your Ty?well i didnt do any of the things i meant to do tonight, but thats all good, i can do the radiator crap tomorrow. got a couple things done at least. throttle body was kinda rough lookin, just a rough casting that had been machined for the 2 throttle blades. i went to massaging that basterd. first pic is as it came out of the box. second and third pic are after "massaging" the last few pics show enlarging the openings in the upper intake to accomodate the larger throttle body.
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0966Sy
Code what?
Hey Trey, Did you ever coat your motor with some trany fluid ect. (the four bolt block sitting in the box) Just thought about that the other day, wouldnt want it to rust.
Most engine paint would work for the valley. It would take some good prep work to make sure it doesnt flake.
Most engine paint would work for the valley. It would take some good prep work to make sure it doesnt flake.
that orange paint in the lifter valley is some old school hot rod crap. i wouldnt do that to a motor. the block was like that when we started on it. just didnt want to try and remove it. the block was cleaned at least 3 different times, and none of it came off in the bath so im just ignoring that its there.
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Merk
Donating Member
E-RUE said:
Could you use the dampner from TA Performance? http://www.taperformance.com/accessor1.htm
<snip>
TA's Ultimate Balancers handle all horsepower and RPM levels, while offering the best fit and finish for the Buick Engines. The Ultimate balancers fit stock timing covers without modification. They also work with stock pulleys and block girdled engines. The economy series balancer provides the necessary performance at less cost with minor fit issues. Generally, Economy balancers need clearancing done on the timing tab and block girdles with engines so equipped.
TA V2027A Ultimate Turbo 6 Balancer with crank sensor, External
TA V2027B Ultimate Turbo 6 Balancer with crank sensor, Internal
</snip>
warmpancakes
New member
Nope those are for the buick v6
jwaller
Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
most ppl in the racing bussines have gotten away from using fluidamper. the ATI is the most popular one in the pros garage now. something about the elasromer in the fluidamper not being very good with heat, and being as it's so close to our crossover I've stopped using them.