Please help me with my build!!!

[Injected1]

I have never made a post on this site before, but I would like to tell you guys my story and see if you can help.

I purchased my Syclone about 8 months ago for $4000. At that time it was a rolling chassis with a bed full of parts. It had been disassembled 5 years prior and been moved to two different states. I thought I knew what I was getting into -- :rotf: The motor and transmission had both been rebuilt. My plan was originally to put the truck back together as is and finally drive a Syclone. Upon receiving the build sheet on the motor, I noticed that they left the factory connecting rods in the motor. From experience, I know that this is one of the weakest lengths in our 4.3 L V-6's. So now I have disassembled the motor and recompleted the build. Please help me make the right decisions on where I go from here.

To date I have accomplished the following on the chassis:

Body and bed removed. Frame painted with POR 15 first and then scuffed and painted with red polyurethane.

17 gallon aluminum fuel cell mounted under bed (still retains factory fill spout)

2002 Chevy Blazer rear disc brakes.

Energy suspension cab mounts

Walbro 255 in line pump

For the engine build:

Block bored .30 over and balanced

Lunati 457/268 Cam grind# 33504

TRW L2441 Blower pistons

2000 Vortec rods and heads redrilled and tapped to fit factory intake - Heads include comp cams, 610 lift, valve springs, 7.200 chromoly push rods, 1.6 roller rockers- self aligning (1318-12), 5 angle valve job with teflon seats and bronze valve guides

Cometic head gaskets

New oil pump

75# injectors

Pioneer SFI harmonic balancer

That's all I can think of right now but I am sure there is more. My future purchases will include some kind of computer, TCS performance 9/11 torque converter w/ 2800-3000 stall and I think a PT6776 dbb turbo. I am looking for my truck to be a mid to high 10 sec truck that will see about 100 miles max a week on the street. I talked to a guy the other day from TD Autowerkes that said if I don't convert the truck to a T4 flange that it will fall on it's face at high rpm. Is this true? Is this combo that I have put together satisfactory for what I want. Anyone feel free to chime in on what they would recommend for a computer, turbo, or anything else that you can think of. Oh, I forgot to mention that I have a 93Ty that I am using for a donor truck for any parts that I might be missing. I know that I will be purchasing a 3 bar map sensor and building my own A2A intercooler setup to go along with whatever turbo that I decide to use but any help will be greatly appreciated :myclone:

I really need a mentor in the rest of this build so any takers feel free to let me know.

Thank you again,
Nick

p.s. Pictures of the entire build will be posted soon.

 

[Bump Stick]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

mid to high 10s 100-200miles a week... Sounds like me building a regualr driver. I amnot planning to tun as fast I am only wanting high 11s and what i have been told is that the 700R4 wont cut it. i know they are right from my F-body days. with AWD and those times not even a built 700r4 would be reliable enough for you. You will be looking at a 4L80 swap and would probibly want a built one too.

I am looking for a mentor too but I think I have found some local guys to help me (local once I get back from Iraq). You are wanting a second faster than I, but I would liek to know what everyone says fo ryou since i might want to go that fast someday.

 

[Injected1]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

mid to high 10s 100-200miles a week... Sounds like me building a regualr driver. I amnot planning to tun as fast I am only wanting high 11s and what i have been told is that the 700R4 wont cut it. i know they are right from my F-body days. with AWD and those times not even a built 700r4 would be reliable enough for you. You will be looking at a 4L80 swap and would probibly want a built one too.

I am looking for a mentor too but I think I have found some local guys to help me (local once I get back from Iraq). You are wanting a second faster than I, but I would liek to know what everyone says fo ryou since i might want to go that fast someday.

Actually it will most likely only be driven on the weekends and once or twice during the week at night. I drive my company vehicle all day during the week and I will have another daily driver. I also know that I will have to go to a 4l80 very soon but I am going to try to drive the 700r first. My budget is starting to run real thin and I still have to get a turbo and the 9/11. Let me know if you find a good price on a 4l80.

 

[blk00z28]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

If you pick your tranny builder wisely, There are plenty of trucks out there running 10's on a built 700. Yeah, 4L80's are nice and most of us would like to run one. But If your budget won't allow it then don't knock the 700..

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

That's all I can think of right now but I am sure there is more. My future purchases will include some kind of computer, TCS performance 9/11 torque converter w/ 2800-3000 stall and I think a PT6776 dbb turbo. I am looking for my truck to be a mid to high 10 sec truck that will see about 100 miles max a week on the street. I talked to a guy the other day from TD Autowerkes that said if I don't convert the truck to a T4 flange that it will fall on it's face at high rpm. Is this true?

That is Bull. As far as I know only people running T4 turbo flange, are those with custom headers. Sy have done 10's with the stock manifolds, s I don't see it as an issue.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

Lunati 457/268 Cam grind# 33504.

Pick a different camshaft, the 108 degree lobe seperation is too narrow for a turbo motor (too much overlap).

 

[Bump Stick]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

I've gone through 4 700R4/4L60e's in F-bodies and have only been running in the 13s n/a (sprayed a couple of times). Those cars were Daily drivers. When i get back to the State I'll go and see my tranny guys (one at the dealership and the other at a tranny shop). Taking it easy on a 700R you would still have to have a built one for your set up. And from what I know i do recomend Prime Gears 700R builds.

 

[supersports10]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

where are you located????

what is the story with the parts donor ty??

i also agree sell the cam, 108 is WAY too tight. it wont want to idle, and will be a bitch to tune to run properly.

114 is alot better, but atleast go with a 112 lsa if you do change it.

the stock rods would have been fine.

 

[Flyin Ryan]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

Just a thought, if you don't need over drive then look into a th400 build.. mucho stronger then a 700r4

 

[Injected1]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

Just a thought, if you don't need over drive then look into a th400 build.. mucho stronger then a 700r4

Thank you guys for all the input. This is great, I wish that I would have starting doing this 6 mos ago. Supersports, what do you want with the donor Ty? I have almost everything disassembled except the engine and it is all at my friends auto shop. I plan on using it as a "MAP" if you will to build my "PHANTOM BLACK BEAST" ha! Being as though I have never built one before. It's alittle scary. If anyone want's to help around the DESTIN Pensacola, or Panama city area please let me know.

Thanks Again,
Nick---owner-- Extreme Reflections Mobile Detailing

 

[Injected1]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

bump!

 

[JSM]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

What exactly are you asking for help with?

As mentioned cam is not what you want. Not very turbo friendly.

The stock ecm can control what your doing if you do some mods to it, or you can go aftermarket. No matter what direction it will need custom tuned.

I read your post, list of parts but no specific questions that I saw.

 

[Aeroking]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

...waiting for pics of this "red" frame.


Also, a couple areas that are not often mentioned, and thus are underestimated, include Fuel Delivery, Ignition, & Suspension, among others.

Not too sure that a Walbro 255 In-tank alone will supply what you need. Also a MSD 6A box would be a good idea, and some sort of traction device in the rear.

 

[turbodig]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

I have never made a post on this site before, but I would like to tell you guys my story and see if you can help.

I purchased my Syclone about 8 months ago for $4000. At that time it was a rolling chassis with a bed full of parts. It had been disassembled 5 years prior and been moved to two different states. I thought I knew what I was getting into -- :rotf: The motor and transmission had both been rebuilt. My plan was originally to put the truck back together as is and finally drive a Syclone. Upon receiving the build sheet on the motor, I noticed that they left the factory connecting rods in the motor. From experience, I know that this is one of the weakest lengths in our 4.3 L V-6's. So now I have disassembled the motor and recompleted the build. Please help me make the right decisions on where I go from here.

To date I have accomplished the following on the chassis:

Body and bed removed. Frame painted with POR 15 first and then scuffed and painted with red polyurethane.

17 gallon aluminum fuel cell mounted under bed (still retains factory fill spout)

2002 Chevy Blazer rear disc brakes.

Energy suspension cab mounts

Walbro 255 in line pump

For the engine build:

Block bored .30 over and balanced

Lunati 457/268 Cam grind# 33504

TRW L2441 Blower pistons

2000 Vortec rods and heads redrilled and tapped to fit factory intake - Heads include comp cams, 610 lift, valve springs, 7.200 chromoly push rods, 1.6 roller rockers- self aligning (1318-12), 5 angle valve job with teflon seats and bronze valve guides

Cometic head gaskets

New oil pump

75# injectors

Pioneer SFI harmonic balancer

That's all I can think of right now but I am sure there is more. My future purchases will include some kind of computer, TCS performance 9/11 torque converter w/ 2800-3000 stall and I think a PT6776 dbb turbo. I am looking for my truck to be a mid to high 10 sec truck that will see about 100 miles max a week on the street. I talked to a guy the other day from TD Autowerkes that said if I don't convert the truck to a T4 flange that it will fall on it's face at high rpm. Is this true? Is this combo that I have put together satisfactory for what I want. Anyone feel free to chime in on what they would recommend for a computer, turbo, or anything else that you can think of. Oh, I forgot to mention that I have a 93Ty that I am using for a donor truck for any parts that I might be missing. I know that I will be purchasing a 3 bar map sensor and building my own A2A intercooler setup to go along with whatever turbo that I decide to use but any help will be greatly appreciated :myclone:

I really need a mentor in the rest of this build so any takers feel free to let me know.

Thank you again,
Nick

p.s. Pictures of the entire build will be posted soon.

Well, you asked for the critique...

You picked stock-style rods, but loaded up the heads with big ticket springs, pushrods and rockers. Nothing wrong with putting that stuff into the heads, but it really isn't all that necessary. These things very seldom spin much past 5500... which would mean your cam doesn't really match up well, either. Once you get your heads set up and seats cut, get them flowed, and get a good custom cam based on those numbers, your weight, and your goals. It's a much better place to put your money.

I'd upgrade to better rods (Eagles), personally, since it seems like your HP goals are fairly aggressive. This will, unfortunately, invalidate your balance job, also. The 4-bolt main conversion would be nice as well, if you're trying to stay on the safe side of engine configuration. Not 100% necessary, but a peace of mind sorta thing.

You didn't mention modding the intake for the Vortec mismatch... there's varying degrees on how well this is done, so be careful.

Personally, I'd run a bit higher CR piston, or at least deck the block flush to get the CR up a bit. 9:1 - 9.5:1 with a decent tune is safe, and you can go even higher than that if you're confident of gas quality.

The converter and turbo is a "sooner" rather than a later. The T4 flange thing is not at all consistent with the guys around here that are well into to 10s with stock manifolds. The turbo you picked is about right for your goals, I don't think you'll be disappointed there.

You didn't list injectors. You'll need 60# or better.

The stock computer can go well into the 10s... and beyond. No matter what you end up with, you'll have to dial it in properly (tune), so there will be some learning there. The aftermarket ECUs don't tune themselves any more than the stock one does. You're running about $500-600 for equipment to tune the stock system, or ~$2.5k for an aftermarket ECU with harness.

Many have mentioned the Trans. You'll either have good luck with yours for a few years, or you'll blow it nearly instantly, and will fight it trying to make it work. There's a reason a lot of people jump to the 80e- they've been down that road.

I can count on fingers the number of successful 10 second 700R4s out there. (And I'd have fingers left over) My .02.

The same things separate the really fast guys from the not so fast-

A stable trans/converter.
A well matched cam/heads combo
Sticky tires and good chassis setup
Above all, a properly tuned computer (either stock or otherwise).

Once you have these worked out, you'll find the rest falls into place.

 

[James Thomas]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

Well, you asked for the critique...

You picked stock-style rods, but loaded up the heads with big ticket springs, pushrods and rockers. Nothing wrong with putting that stuff into the heads, but it really isn't all that necessary. These things very seldom spin much past 5500... which would mean your cam doesn't really match up well, either. Once you get your heads set up and seats cut, get them flowed, and get a good custom cam based on those numbers, your weight, and your goals. It's a much better place to put your money.

I'd upgrade to better rods (Eagles), personally, since it seems like your HP goals are fairly aggressive. This will, unfortunately, invalidate your balance job, also. The 4-bolt main conversion would be nice as well, if you're trying to stay on the safe side of engine configuration. Not 100% necessary, but a peace of mind sorta thing.

You didn't mention modding the intake for the Vortec mismatch... there's varying degrees on how well this is done, so be careful.

Personally, I'd run a bit higher CR piston, or at least deck the block flush to get the CR up a bit. 9:1 - 9.5:1 with a decent tune is safe, and you can go even higher than that if you're confident of gas quality.

The converter and turbo is a "sooner" rather than a later. The T4 flange thing is not at all consistent with the guys around here that are well into to 10s with stock manifolds. The turbo you picked is about right for your goals, I don't think you'll be disappointed there.

You didn't list injectors. You'll need 60# or better.

The stock computer can go well into the 10s... and beyond. No matter what you end up with, you'll have to dial it in properly (tune), so there will be some learning there. The aftermarket ECUs don't tune themselves any more than the stock one does. You're running about $500-600 for equipment to tune the stock system, or ~$2.5k for an aftermarket ECU with harness.

Many have mentioned the Trans. You'll either have good luck with yours for a few years, or you'll blow it nearly instantly, and will fight it trying to make it work. There's a reason a lot of people jump to the 80e- they've been down that road.

I can count on fingers the number of successful 10 second 700R4s out there. (And I'd have fingers left over) My .02.

The same things separate the really fast guys from the not so fast-

A stable trans/converter.
A well matched cam/heads combo
Sticky tires and good chassis setup
Above all, a properly tuned computer (either stock or otherwise).

Once you have these worked out, you'll find the rest falls into place.

I was gonna throw my :2cents: in but as I read Dig's reply I realized I had nothing fresh to offer, other than........ When the Dig speaks, the smart people listen :tup: !
Your build "sheet" is not that far of other than the cam. You will at some point (prolly sooner than later" be looking for a trans. Be it 700R4 or 4L80, I would call Blake or Waller.
Do your yourself (and wallet) a huge favor and follow the links to code#59!

________
James

 

[midnightbluS10]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

I have never made a post on this site before, but I would like to tell you guys my story and see if you can help.

New oil pump

Which oil pump?

 

[Injected1]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

Alright, well I have listened and complied with digs suggestions. I am removing the cam and going with either a 415 or lunati's voodoo with a 115 lsa. One question I do have is what oil pump to use? I decided to go with a Turbonetics T66 and 75# injectors, what in line fuel pump should I use? The tranny is going to be Tranzparts.Inc 750hp built 700r4 with a 9/11 conveter at 2800 stall. This tranny has a 3yr unlimited mile no hassle warranty. I am going to however stay with the vortec rods and trw pistons. What is the easiest and best way going to be to tune this combo? Who is the man to talk to? And by the way the vortec head swap was done the more expesive correct way by adding 1/4 material to the sides and the cnc it perfectly flat.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

I decided to go with a Turbonetics T66 and 75# injectors, what in line fuel pump should I use? The tranny is going to be Tranzparts.Inc 750hp built 700r4 with a 9/11 conveter at 2800 stall. This tranny has a 3yr unlimited mile no hassle warranty.

After you break it a couple times, the warranty will be a hassle. Don't have them put a shift kit in it if your using you original SyTy Valvebody. I have no expereince with them, but your going to need a very stout 700R4 to hold upto the engine your building. Very few transmission build are upto the task of building up high perfroamcne 700R4 for a SyTy. I would highly recommend one of Blake or Waller Transmssions, even those aren't bullit proof in the 10's.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

Oil Pump melling select 10553

 

[Injected1]

Re: Please help me with my build!!!

Alright everybody now that you know my build what cam would you recommend and who is the right man for the chip? I was thinking about running the comp 415 with 75#'s and a Barry Grant 400 in-line fuel pump with a RPM regulator. I am also running -8an braided send and return lines and a T66 or a PT6776. I want to run the stock computer with the setup for know and I will go to a FAST or Big stuff system later. I have the opprotunity to buy a T66 for $500 from a friend of mine that has about 250 miles on it. Would you recommend that turbo or is a PT more to my liking? Please help. Anyone on her custom grind cams for my setup?