Photoshopped picture?

mattw

Active member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

So now that I have everything apart and can take measurements I've decided to not even use the wastegate port on the back of the PTE housing.. It is only 26.8mm(1").. It could be ported but you would never get it to 50mm and still have enough surface left for the downpipe flange to actually seal. I am just going to block this port off and tap my manifolds where I can get the whole 50mm.. This is where/how I plan to do it..

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I will purchase a 50mm v-band wastegate and mount it to the top of the pipe. I should be able to plumb the return back into the downpipe 18" from the turbo..

I want perfect boost control so I am trying to do this right.. No more blown engines!!!

Thoughts, suggestions, recommendations?
 

fivetodrive

CRISPY
Re: Photoshopped picture?

That looks like a lot of weight on the header with the turbo and the wastegate. It looks like you could easily add a support rod from the alternator bolt to the turbo and take some stress off it!
 

mattw

Active member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

That looks like a lot of weight on the header with the turbo and the wastegate. It looks like you could easily add a support rod from the alternator bolt to the turbo and take some stress off it!

Yeah, I thought about that.. These manifolds are pretty stout though.. Plus they are just mild steel so if it cracks I'll re-weld it and add a support at that time..
 

ziembic

Donating Member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

Yeah, I thought about that.. These manifolds are pretty stout though.. Plus they are just mild steel so if it cracks I'll re-weld it and add a support at that time..

AKA I just want to be done f'ing with it.
 
W

Wip

Guest
Re: Photoshopped picture?

Was that kid photoshopped in? :rotf: What a cool thread.Nice progress
 

ziembic

Donating Member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

Kind of.. More so just trying to keep it simple/clean.. I don't want to add another bracket unless I absolutely need it...

I know. I didn't mean any harm. You always do things the right way and in a crazy short amount of time. I just mean that if you redesign things a million times you only ever get halfway to the finish line.
 

mattw

Active member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

So I didn't bend a rod like I thought....

I am running 100% stock vortec heads that came fully assembled from the GM parts counter. They came with press in studs(yuck). For some reason one of them decided to lift about .09" out of the head. This caused the push rod and rocker to get pretty loose and make my knocking sound.. As far as I can tell nothing was damaged.

Now I could understand this happening if I had a cam with crazy high lift or 1.6 rockers or heavy springs, or something putting a lot of force on them but I'm just running a stock TBI cam with stock 1.5 rockers and stock vortec head valve springs.. What gives? Anyone care to speculate on why this happened?

So I'm not sure what to do now. At some point I plan to upgrade to a more aggressive roller cam and go with screw in studs, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.. However, I don't have the funds to do all of that right now..

Is there any way to press this thing back in and get it to stay without removing the head?

I'm having serious thoughts of just tacking it to the head and moving on for now. I don't think that would cause any issues later when I upgrade to screw in studs as I could just grind the tacks away.



I would just pull these press-in-studs out, tap the heads and put screw in studs in there but I don't think I could use my stock rockers then. They are already pretty close to the head and I think they would contact the nut portion of the screw in studs:

Rocker%20to%20head%20distance%20point_19%20inches.JPG


I suppose it would be possible to have that surface machined down and then tap the holes but would that cause problems later down the road when I go with bigger roller cam, 1.6 roller rockers, etc??

Suggestions, ideas???
 
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mattw

Active member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

So everyone is telling me to smack the stud back down in and pin it.. That raises some more questions for me..

I did try hitting it kinda hard and it wouldn't budge. I was afraid that if I hit it much harder I would crack and/or deform the head. Is this a valid concern or can I beat the crap out of it till it goes back down?

Should I pin all of the studs or just this one?

Will pinning the studs mess me up if I decide later down the road that I want to tap the holes and go with screw in studs?
 

Beavis

Still plays with trucks
Re: Photoshopped picture?

Try calling some machine/head shops and just see what they would charge to do screw in studs and see if your stock rockers will work. I think they could. It would be worth it in the big picture considering your plans. Probably be the same $ whether it be now or later....
 

mattw

Active member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

So after a ton of reading last night I think I am going to have my bosses machined down and tap them for screw in studs.. That will achieve two things...
1) Make it way stronger
2) Allow me to use guide plates in the future if I decide to go that route..

From what I have read you can use stock rockers with screw in studs.. Those boss surfaces just need to be machined down the appropriate amount so that the stud is at the proper height..
so that is what I will do for now...
 

JSM

Active member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

Yep, machine it and be done. If you have a bridgeport it can even be done yourself.
 

IRVIN COLON

New member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

pretty nice question what modification or what steering shaft do you have the syty or from the 99 explorer or e modification of both let me know i are interesting in do that.
 

mattw

Active member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

pretty nice question what modification or what steering shaft do you have the syty or from the 99 explorer or e modification of both let me know i are interesting in do that.

The steering shaft is part Explorer part Jeep Cherokee.. The lower joint and the expandable part are from the Explorer.. They both seemed really nice for stock parts. The expandable part actually has bearings in it and is very smooth. The top U joint is from a Cherokee that did NOT have a rubber isolator.. I was able to slide the two shafts together a few inches for some overlap then I welded them up..
 

mattw

Active member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

I finally picked up my heads and am ready to install them. The were machined down and tapped for screw in studs. Also, the valve seal seats were machined down and new seals were installed that will allow up to .6" of lift. So, I'm ready for a bigger cam down the road..

Heads%20with%20screw%20in%20studs.JPG


Also, my new wastegate arrived today. This thing is beautiful but for $500 it better be!!

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Turbosmart%20ProGate%2050%202.JPG
 

mattw

Active member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

New -vs- Old:

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I started modifying my downpipe in prep for the new wastegate.. I started by removing an O2 bung that was in an unusable location. Next I removed the plumbing for the old wastegate..

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mattw

Active member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

I'm late to the party. This is only a 3 month old question. :D

Was it an intake rocker stud that "lifted"? If so, Intake valve 'tuliping" or stress to the valve train is 100% always a sign of detonation. You must have rattled it good. Good to see you working on it again. Regards.

It was this one.. I think that goes to an intake valve..??

Loose%20Rocker.JPG
 

mattw

Active member
Re: Photoshopped picture?

So I got the heads back on the motor today and worked a bit on how I want to mount the new wastegate. The instructions that came with it provided this diagram:

WastegateMounting.jpg


So the way I have it here is somewhere between their "Angled Mounting" and "90 Degree Mounting". I think I would like to get more of an angle here possibly by using a section of pipe that has a bend to it.. Thoughts??

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