Lower intake swap / Vortec head & cam install on stock bottom end

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Port Matching Vortec Intake Ports

Re: Port Matching Vortec Intake Ports

Tooky said:
That link gives me a 404..? But I know which article you mean (if you delete the index1.html off that URL, it works). I was going to include that article, but lately it seems like the article has been basically deleted. Take a look at it, it's just 1 photo and 2 paragraphs. The original article had about 15 photos and a story to go with. I have it saved to disk. I contacted Car Craft to notify them of the mistake but never heard back.


It doesn't work for me as well, I printed it out earlier this year. I just copied and pasted it quickly this morning with otu checking it. Sorry about that, I guesss I am glad that printed it out when I did now.
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Re: Lower intake swap / Vortec head & cam install on stock bottom end

FWIW I measured the 1203 gasket, 1.33" wide at the port.
 

SY2455

70's Veteran
Re: Lower intake swap / Vortec head & cam install on stock bottom end

Tooky said:
Is anyone else besides me and Dig reading this stuff??
Here's my passenger side cylinder head:

rh_cylhead.jpg
What is near the exhaust valve in the left cyl at the 9 o'clock position? I do know that you won't be using these heads as I was reading over your postings for the last 1.5 hours.
 

E-Rue

New member
Re: Lower intake swap / Vortec head & cam install on stock bottom end

feel free to use my pics as a guide if they help you with your porting experiment.

aam.jpg


aas.jpg


aat.jpg


e
 

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
Good Thread Tooky

Good Thread Tooky

Holy crap this thread brings up memories...... good ones, and bad ones.. Not much technical to contribute since it appears you have it well in hand now. Just a couple of things tho...(get ready for the trip down memory lane)..


First the good memories..

1. I remember talking to you Tooky when you were doing something with the turbo and couldnt get the studs off, I remember talking to you on IM or ICQ and telling you to use the double nut method to get the studs out, you ran out to the garage and tried it and then quickly removed all 4 studs. My how things have progressed since those days... Kudos to you...

2. I remember when I first started the conversion on my truck, you questioned why I was using terminology like LS1, LS6... Funny how you questioned me using RPO codes (even though at the time it was the common nomenclature for the parts in question).. Now I see you throwing the terminology around like I was back a few short years ago..
Ok.gif


3. Working with Nolan (via internet) to try to get my Vortec Headed PT-52 turbo'd truck back to running TUNED condition.. Things were alot different in the tuning world then than they are now.. Finally going out and getting to make some WOT runs with the truck after all the hard work you are outlining here.. My motor wasnt 100% tuned when it expired but it felt like an entirely different truck with the heads and turbo install. Breaking all 4 tires loose on a roll out when the turbo came up was something I still remember vividly to this day..

Now the bad memories...

4. Eventual failure of the said mentioned motor, mainly because the previous life (before my ownership) I suspect the truck wasnt very well maintained. I purchased the truck at 104k and started this mod around 108k-109k.. Was driving to an OHIO meet when it decided it was time to puke the rod and main bearings on the lower end. Wasn't under WOT, just constant cruise speed, still had oil pressure and ZERO KNOCK the entire time Nolan was tuning it (used to have all the Datamaster runs to show every minute of the vortec conversions life). I realize your truck has been better cared for than I suspect mine was because you have owned it sometime, the problem is, I'd say its safe to assume, you have pushed the stock engine combo well past its expected lifespan with all the hard running you mention above.. If you DO have as many runs as you elude to, I'd guess you are on borrowed time, metal fatigues from usage, and I'd say you've gotten plenty of that..



I read every post by every member in this thread, I saw 2 mentionings about pulling the motor to inspect for bearing damage.. One by Dig and one by Tony. Both of these guys I highly respect and would trust their judgement. Alot of people here dont know the business end of a wrench, but these two guys everyone knows and respects, they have been around SyTy land a very long time. I guess I am going to add my name to that amazingly short list of people and urge you to pull the bottom end out and inspect things before its too late. I think you maybe surprised what you see.. You are quite honestly 85-90% there already... It would really REALLY suck to have to do all of this over again next spring when racing season is upon us wouldnt it ? If I remember correctly, you dont drive your truck in the winter months and it goes into storage, what better time to start planning/building a lower end than over the winter.. This would afford you a couple of options.. A) Piece of Mind knowing its good B) chance to install new motor mounts as well.

Here is my reasoning for this statement, I have been where you are, I know what it feels like, all the excitement and anticipation of trying out & tuning a new mod. I also know how it feels when the tired lower end craps out after only a couple thousand miles too...

Thing is, it really sucks if/when that lower end DOES go, as well as gets exponentially more expensive to rebuild after a failure than if you pull it now to do it while everything is still in its normally assembled fashion and connected to the parts GM originally intended.. Besides I think alot of people here would be game for a TookyCat play by play thread on engine building 101 ? (kidding, only kidding..) In addition to the monetary costs, there is a huge kick in the nuts in terms of motivation when you pour your heart into a mod like you have done here, only to have the joy of the rewards of it be short lived.. Make sense ??

A couple of things to consider, if your motor fails.. Most likely that new custom cam you have now.. will be a conversation piece and unusable.. If you do NOT have an inline oil filter to the turbo, GET ONE.. I think Erue sells these for extremely reasonable, I didnt have one at the time and my failure also cost me my brand spankin' new PT52 ($400+ rebuild from PTE). Because of the damage my engine saw, I basically needed a new crank (I tried 3x alleged 'good' 4.3L cranks and all 3 failed mag particle inspection when taken to the machine shop). My block was still usable, but some damage had been incurred to the main bearing caps, I was going 4 bolt conversion so it would have req'd a rebore anyhow, but it adds to the machine shop costs during rebuild.. Ultimately it was what started me down the road I am on now with my conversion.. Theres been alot of other 'life' events that have come up around the time my motor failed that contributed to the never ending delays that have stalemated my swap, but I gotta tell you, the motor failure was HUGE to my motivation level too after I did all the work you are outlining here..


Just 2 more things to ramble on as they were mentioned earlier..

1. Poly Mounts are great if you take care of them.. It was mentioned to rebuild/repair the heat shielding before reinstalling. I think this is critical.. My truck and Rolands truck were first the 2 SyTys to receive Jeffs frame pads, in a sense we were the guinea pigs.. Once production commenced my truck logged about 2000 miles on the poly mounts with not a single hint of distress.. I believe its because I took the time to repair the heat shields and get them ready to run again. I cant tell you how many trucks I saw over the years where people didnt put the heat shields back on because it was such a bitch.. If they DID they were usually damaged or really beat up.. Take care of them and they will take care of your poly mounts..

2. Consider using Cap Head screw/bolts for the intake manifold to head bolts. I think they are alot easier to deal with than the hex bolts that you showed (and come stock). Get the same thread pitch and length and you will be fine. If you get the socket drivers in 3/8" drive you will notice you will actually be able to torque the bolts down now too, its quite difficult with the stock hex style bolts. If you are concerned about hole showing (if you slotted yer intake) then get some washers..


Good luck man, and I certainly am NOT wishing anything on you, I hope if you chose to NOT pull the motor that you get many years of enjoyment out of it before it expires..

All the above of course was just my
2cents.gif


Todd
 

Sy Guy 0024

Member
Re: Lower intake swap / Vortec head & cam install on stock bottom end

I agree with Todd and the others urging you to yank the motor and have a look at the bottom end. After having my Ty for a few months, I noticed a coolant leak from the head. Wanting to do a quickie repair and get it back on the road, I decided to simply do the gaskets and bolt it back together. I discovered a broken motor mount upon disassembly, so I actually pulled the motor to replace the mounts. I had the engine OUT OF THE TRUCK, yet NEVER EVEN PULLED THE MAIN CAPS since it was showing no problems. :doh: I got maybe 600 miles out of it, and the bottom end let go. Talk about a kick in the nuts. Like when Todd wiped his motor, I was driving normal, no WOT, no knock, etc and the oil pressure just dropped. Wiped the crank and bearings. I can't help but wonder if I could have avoided the extra expenses had I just pulled the caps and had a look. Instead, I wasted $500 in a new crank, gaskets, coolant, etc. and many hours of valuable time. You've got 100+ hours in this already, whats a couple more?

On the topic of motor mounts, I did the polys in my ATR header-equipped Sy in 03 or 04 and have had zero problems with them since. I liked them so much in fact, I put them in the Ty too. Just give em a good heat wrapping, and they'll be fine.

Whatever route you decide to go, this is a great thread. Keep up the good work. I think it's funny how you've managed to tune your truck to where it is now, yet seemed unsure/uneasy to tear into the engine. I'm just the opposite- I've had SO many problems with my trucks, I've had them apart many times and have no qualms about pulling a motor by myself. Yet the only thing I know about tuning is how to load a bin into an eprom.

Maybe when you get it running again you should do a nice step-by-step documentary on how you tuned it? That would be good reading.
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Re: Lower intake swap / Vortec head & cam install on stock bottom end

Erue: Thanks for posting those!! I found the rest here: http://www.turbotimelounge.us/gallery/album39, great pics. Now that I finally found a 6" carbide burr I can finish porting the heads (valve guide bosses). I'm going to try and make mine look like a "volcano" like yours. I should have given you more credit - I also followed your "airfoil" idea on my lower intake manifold.

Todd (TyDriver): Hah I remember those conversations too! I think I was arguing with you over whether the LS6 was just an LS1 with a different intake, heads and cam. :)

Todd and Sy Guy 0024, I completely understand your reasoning why I should pull the motor and check out the bottom end. I would like to, but just don't have the resources to make it happen right now (the additional space is the main problem). On the plus side, my bottom end has survived a ton of heavy duty and I have no reason to believe that it's on it's last leg. And SyTy member Wes already accomplished basically the same mods I'm doing, on his stock bottom end Typhoon and he ran 11.7 @ 118 and last I heard the truck was sold and still running strong. I also just spoke with a guy on eBay selling some aluminum V6 rods, he races a circle track IMCA Chevy V6 class, he said he has a stock mid-1980's 4.3L motor that turns 7100 RPM "easily", as well as a billet oddfire crank motor that he's turned over 10,000! :eek:

I realize I'm risking a few thousand dollars and a ton of "wasted" time if I get it back together and it lets loose within the first couple hundred miles, but I think the risk is minimal enough and I truly believe the bottom end has a good chance at handling what I want to throw at it. I found plenty of guys with TBI motors on thirdgen.org (basically the same as ours) who have spun 6000 RPM with no problems (one guy hit 7000 by accident, no damage).

Again, I would pull the motor if I could make it happen, but I can't. So if the motor lets loose, I won't be offended if you guys say "I Told You So!" :)

Finally, Sy Guy 0024, writing a tuning how-to guide has been on my list of projects for a long time. I really think I could illustrate it with a lot of DataMaster snapshots, TunerPro snapshots, and real-world explanations. I just gotta get my butt in gear and do it one of these days.
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Exhaust valve guide boss profiling

Exhaust valve guide boss profiling

Today I profiled the valve guide boss in the exhaust port. I am convinced this is the largest restriction in exhaust flow. Stock, it's like a big flat shelf in the small diameter exhaust port, making the outgoing exhaust slam into a flat wall and find away around it.

Stock Exhaust Valve Guide (Left)
vortec_chamber_bowlported1.jpg



Car Craft results
In the elusive Car Craft Vortec porting article (which has been basically deleted by mistake; the website only shows the first paragraph and photo out of a series that used to be 15 photos.), they measured the following flow increases with a port job similar to mine but a little better (they opened the pushrod pinch, etc.)

116_0306_vort_flow_z.jpg



Notice the negligible gains on the intake, and the gigantic gains on the exhaust. Here's what their exhaust port looks like:

116_0306_vort_4002_z.jpg



Porting Tips
It's the hardest area to reach because you have to reach so far in, yet be careful not to bump the grinder on the valve seat. My new 6" burr exposes the major flaw in the Harbor Freight $40 die grinder - it makes it wobble so bad as to be totally unusable (and dangerous). I cut 2" off the shank and it got better, and I used it on a low speed setting. It sucked, and I encourage anyone doing this to find a small radius burr (1/4"-3/8" max, mine was somewhere around 3/8" or maybe a little bigger). I had to carefully use one of my other 2" burrs to come in from the top which was next to impossible with such a short length.

By mistake, I also hit the top edges of the valve guide boss on several ports. However I dont think this really matters because on race heads they heavily grind down the valve guide. If you want to see an amazing small block race head that flows 450cfm, check this out. :eek:


My profiled exhaust valve guides
Here is what mine look like after today:

vortec_exhaustports_ported1.jpg

vortec_exhaustports_ported2.jpg


vortec_exhaustports_ported3.jpg

vortec_exhaustports_ported4.jpg


Is that last one a cool picture or what? :silly:


My next race is Fall 2007 Road America on Oct 13th, so that's not far away. I'm going to try and rush the heads to the machine shop for flow testing right after the porting, so we'll get some real numbers on what this limited DIY port job really accomplishes. ;) If I can get this together & tuned for the Road Race, it would be killer!! And I'll get to test out my 3-4 WOT fix to my 700R4 that I burned last time I raced Road America. :D
 

MrNurse

i'm no homo
Re: Lower intake swap / Vortec head & cam install on stock bottom end

purty!!!!!! are those motor mounts gonna work fer ya?
 

Ground Rat

New member
Re: Lower intake swap / Vortec head & cam install on stock bottom end

Just finished reading all 8 pages. Excellent write-up and pics, especially of the head porting!

I recently ported my intake, exhaust manifold, and "swing valve" on my turbo minivan but was too nervous to touch the stock head. I really want to give it a shot now! I use a dremel w/ extension for aluminum and the same HF electric grinder you have for the cast iron. I didn't know about the variable speed controller or that spraying WD-40 on my carbide tip when porting aluminum would work until I read this thread. Great thread!
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Finished exhaust valve guide profiling

Finished exhaust valve guide profiling

This was probably the hardest porting of all, getting behind the exhaust valve guide to make a smooth passage from the rear port wall to the roof.

bfmlpu.jpg


e0h9s.jpg



They're pretty much finished at this point and will be flow tested again on Monday.

292b59s.jpg



I really have no idea what they will flow over the old numbers (227cfm intake, 163cfm exhaust), but I'm going to guess 230-235cfm intake, 195cfm exhaust. :p
 

It's just a six

Super Member
Re: Lower intake swap / Vortec head & cam install on stock bottom end

You might want to say what flow bench machine it is,& what size bore was it tested on.
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Valve spring measurements

Valve spring measurements

I double checked the spring height clearances before sending the heads off to be flow tested, in case the shop misunderstood. (I asked them to grind the guides down for .550" lift clearance, they measured it to be totally unnecessary.) Here's what I got: (some measurements are ~estimated because I didn't use a proper valve spring height micrometer to measure, I sort of eyeballed it with a calipers' depth rod.

vortec_spring_measurements.jpg



In my case my cam lifts in the neighborhood of .530" on both intake and exhaust. Worst case, exhaust with .715" gross clearance, minus the cam lift (.530) = .185", minus the thickness of the valve stem seal (guessing .060") = .125" minus .060" safety margin = .065" extra clearance than necessary. Hope I got that right. :D
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Re: Lower intake swap / Vortec head & cam install on stock bottom end

It's just a six said:
You might want to say what flow bench machine it is,& what size bore was it tested on.
I found out today both tests use a SuperFlow 600 bench at 28" water with a 4.00" bore.
 

MrNurse

i'm no homo
Re: Lower intake swap / Vortec head & cam install on stock bottom end

cool, so when can i ship my heads over to ya to get this done?
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Flow Results

Flow Results

Today I got the flow numbers back on my port work. This time I saw the flow bench, it's a SuperFlow 600 (kind of looks like an arcade dartboard cabinet.)

Code:
Intake                                          Exhaust

Lift    Stock   Ported  Diff (CFM)      Lift    Stock   Ported  Diff (CFM)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0.050   31.3    30.6     -0.70           0.050   24.7    24.7     +0.00
0.100   62.6    61.2     -1.40           0.100   49.3    49.3     +0.00
0.150   97.0    94.9     -2.10           0.150   77.5    75.4     -2.10
0.200   131.3  128.5   -2.80           0.200   105.7   101.5   -4.20
0.250   159     154.4   -4.60           0.250   122.2   120.9   -1.30
0.300   186.6  180.3   -6.30           0.300   138.7   140.3   +1.60
0.350   202.5  197.7   -4.80           0.350   147.1   148.2   +1.10
0.400   218.5  215.2   -3.30           0.400   155.5   156.0   +0.50
0.450   227.3  224.5   -2.80           0.450   159.3   162.7   +3.40
0.500   216     227.4   +11.40        0.500   162.6   168.7   +6.10
0.550   219     219.7   +0.70          0.550   163.9   171.5   +7.60
0.600   217.2  220.8   +3.60          0.600   165.2
0.650                218.5                       0.650

Avg:    184.8   188.5   +3.70           Avg:    137.5   135.7   -1.80
:barf:
:roll: :tdown: :oops: :banghead: :steamer: :screwy: :x :doh: :bad-word:
 
Top