how do you remove stock turbo? (porting info too)

[Syclone#2960]

I have been trying to remove the stock turbo with no luck.the bolts are to tight.Is there a link that can help me with this? :x
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HERBAL VAPORIZERS

 

[speedy]

I think a lot of penitrating lube would help, we use some at work called S ok or something like that, it works great.

 

[Syclone#2960]

i have 4 bolts to go and I should be done,back to autozone. :drinking:
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FEMALE ADVICE FORUMS

 

[Loeryder]

PB Blaster is the stufdf you need
And stubby wrenches to get the bolts off the exhaust manifold.

Get the box end of the stubby on there and use a longer wrench to get leverage on it.
I had to take the DP bracket bolt out of mine to get the dp to pull away from the studs. My new turbo I am not using studs but bolts instead so I won't have this trouble again.

 

[Syclone#2960]

thanks for the the info guys, I will let the Sok soke all night. :-?
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IPAD ACCESSORIES

 

[SyTyJedi]

15mm stubby wrench will be your best friend for those bottom 4 bolts.

 

[stariy]

Well as you may know I came from formal Soviet Union (in 1992). We had no AutoZone or PepBoys and no WD-40 --THAN. So we had to find alternative ways. 'Till today, to get out rusted stubborn bolt or nut I use brake fluid. Old or new just pure a little and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. Give it a try once.

Glad to be of any help.

 

[SY756]

Like they stated before, stubby wrenches and I use a "blue tipped" wrench will get them off. Just heat them up real good and they will break loose.

 

[CLONE]

'Till today, to get out rusted stubborn bolt or nut I use brake fluid. Old or new just pure a little and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. Give it a try once.

This works well, I've done it before with exhaust manifold bolts. However, be sure to keep the brake fluid away from any painted surface that you'd like to remain painted .

 

[Syclone#2960]

Its a Mother

Its a Mother

Finally I remove it. I was having trouble removing the turbo after I took the bolts off.The downpipe was too tight to wiggle so I loosened up the bolt right next to the starter.Reallll cute. I did this in th4e following order for future reference.Let me know if I should have done something in the order that would have made it easier.
1.Removed hood
2.removed wheel
3.remove wheel fender well.
4.Drain IC coolant
5.removed IC and air filter tube.
6.removed wastegate rod bolts from turbo
7.removed boost control module if that is what it is called on top of wastegate.
8.Disconnect all lines flowing through turbo
9.loosen DP bolt next to starter :x
10. Remove 3 15mm bolts on DP.
11.Remove 4 15mm bolts on turbo exhaust inlet.
12.Wiggle off turbo.
13.Wash hands with Fast Orange. :drinking:
14. Port out IC inlets and outlets.
15. Port out material at turbo inlet.

Anything I missed?
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CatWomann

 

[Ian Turgeon]

how about port matching the exhaust side? I'm working on this now, it takes some time but its simple stuff.

Also: what stuff do you need to buy to put the turbo back in?
washers & seals etc?
(Have not dope this yet as I got a spare to work on)

 

[Sy#26]

Save those four turbine housing to manifold nuts - the store bought ones seem to be 16 or 18mm heads, way too fat to use w/o interference. Order a few extra from Dal before you drop one or two into the black hole beneath the engine. Port matching = good idea, as well as opening up the flapper inlet, can cut a lot off the near side radius. Depending on what it is you want to do, easier to remove the band clamp, pull the center section/compressor forward (with all lines intact) & just unbolt turbine - careful of the blades. IC and hood can normally stay attached....

And apply bandages to hands/arms as needed.......

 

[Syclone#2960]

Save those four turbine housing to manifold nuts - the store bought ones seem to be 16 or 18mm heads, way too fat to use w/o interference. Order a few extra from Dal before you drop one or two into the black hole beneath the engine. Port matching = good idea, as well as opening up the flapper inlet, can cut a lot off the near side radius. Depending on what it is you want to do, easier to remove the band clamp, pull the center section/compressor forward (with all lines intact) & just unbolt turbine - careful of the blades. IC and hood can normally stay attached....

And apply bandages to hands/arms as needed.......

I removed the band clamp but the unit stilll is compressed together.Do I need to seperate the the two? ::ignore::
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[Ian Turgeon]

the only thing holding the exhaust housing on to the center section is rust and the v band clamp. I had to use some force-on-a-stick persuasion.

 

[Syclone#2960]

Should I port anything in between them? Or do not even bother seperating them. :mountain dew:
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THE CIGAR BOSS

 

[Ian Turgeon]

I'd take them apart if your going to do any port work on them at all. Good idea to keep things clean, and you'll be able to work with them easier.


The only things you want to do is port match the exhaust side that mates to the exhaust manifolds, and bellmouth the compressor side.

 

[stariy]

'Till today, to get out rusted stubborn bolt or nut I use brake fluid. Old or new just pure a little and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. Give it a try once.

This works well, I've done it before with exhaust manifold bolts. However, be sure to keep the brake fluid away from any painted surface that you'd like to remain painted .

True, True. Good way to punish assholes though instead keying their car just put few drops of brake fluid there and there :evil: Paint will peel-off at next rain or wash :lol:

 

[Syclone#2960]

I'd take them apart if your going to do any port work on them at all. Good idea to keep things clean, and you'll be able to work with them easier.


The only things you want to do is port match the exhaust side that mates to the exhaust manifolds, and bellmouth the compressor side.

Ian, I think I am about finished porting.Should I polish it now? I bougth a dremel kit from Sears and it came with a polish compound should I use it? :morning:
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[sy1907]

Hey, if you have a digi camera, would you mind taking a few pics of the porting work? I'm just about to begin with the snow on the way, and don't want to take off too much. I've seen the porting work on the white typhoon site I think it is, don't kill me for being wrong on that. Any pics or tips would be appreciated. Email pics to wod01@msn.com Thanks guys

 

[Ian Turgeon]

I believe the porting kit I bought said to use their 120 flapper wheel then a polishing "cross-buff" to achieve the smoothest port posible to try and prevent carbon from having anything to bond to. So feel free to polish it shiny.

site explaining porting process from standart abrasives.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm

I'm uploading pics to my gallery now.