A/C Replacement/Upgrade?

Will_in_China

Will_in_China

Truckless Wonder
So on the way back from the Nats, my A/C took a shit...

Is there a suitable uber-mega-super-duper upgrade for our AC Compressors?

With my demand for cold AC, all this talk of rerouting IC lines and the stupidity of the GM one that clunks in and out of AC load that I have seen on a bunch of different trucks, I figure there must be something better for the ole' "88-92 S-Series" that would fit.

Has anyone had the chance to find a viable compressor upgrade that fits perfectly and is badass?

Ask the S-Series guys?

Thanks,
-W
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Re: A/C Replacement/Upgrade?

Will_in_Denver said:
So on the way back from the Nats, my A/C took a shit...

Is there a suitable uber-mega-super-duper upgrade for our AC Compressors?

With my demand for cold AC, all this talk of rerouting IC lines and the stupidity of the GM one that clunks in and out of AC load that I have seen on a bunch of different trucks, I figure there must be something better for the ole' "88-92 S-Series" that would fit.

Has anyone had the chance to find a viable compressor upgrade that fits perfectly and is badass?

Ask the S-Series guys?

Thanks,
-W
Click to expand...

not that I've found. I've redone several s-series ac systems and I've tried newer, later model compressors. but nothing did any better.
 
Will_in_China

Will_in_China

Truckless Wonder
Re: A/C Replacement/Upgrade?

not that I've found. I've redone several s-series ac systems and I've tried newer, later model compressors. but nothing did any better.
Click to expand...

Grrrr, more research time required then.
Do you know roughly which ones you tried so I can skip them?

Stocker appears to be a "Harrison HR100"...

-Will
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
I used everything from 88-94. thats all the stuff that bolts on. and the stuff that requires a plug in like the 92 and up's with the weather pack connector. the one supposed to be built for 134a. all did the same temps not a single one did better than any of the others...
 
S

SuperStockChamp03

New member
I'm no A/C wizz, but from what I understand as log as the compressor keeps the liquid line full of liquid and the system is not over charged there should be very little to gain from a bigger bad a$$ compressor.
You may want to try rerouting the heater core hoses in the summer, it is possable to do this with a vaccum operated valve but it would add a lot of extra plumbing.

Troy
 
sytyguy

sytyguy

Moderated User
As far as reliability, there are some late model Nippondenso and Sanden compressors that are, for all practical purposes, bulletproof. You can just about use them as a hydraulic pump and they'll live. They're showing up on most late model imports and some domestics (generally being accepted as the compressors of choice by all now). Getting one to fit is another story :wink: . Although they are much smaller than our unit.

As long as the OEM style system is in good working order, I would think it would be sufficient for cooling......just not that durable of a compressor design.

I can get the exact numbers on these late model compressors if need be.

HTHs

Michael
 
L

Lynn D. Brown

New member
Will, - Have U written one ?

I redid my GN one and switched to R-134A. Not quite as good when U R idling in traffic, but OK at speed.

If U can reuse some of your R-12 and don't have to buy too much, I would stay w it. However, I would replace everything else while I was at it - the lines, Flash valve, pot, coil in the car, etc. I ended up having to refill a few times - and thank God I wasn't having to buy R-12.

Now I have a possible leak in one of the hoses, so I'll redo that if it empties the refrigerant. I was leaning over the engine compartment and leaned on one of the AC hoses and heard a "hiss".

Some other shit - don't get a REMAN off brand compressor. My 1st one was bad off the shelf, and the guy who did the job said the startup failure rate for those was about 1 in 2 or 3. He's gonna tell customers that his Labor is not guaranteed if they go w one of those cheapies from here on out. So, I paid about $100. or so more and got an AC one. Take your old one in to match up, because they'll likely give U the wrong one.
 
Will_in_China

Will_in_China

Truckless Wonder
Cool!

Kevin said something about using a Denali one?
Dual Zone?

"Use one zone for cabin, other zone for IC trickery"

Thoughts?

Probably wouldn't even bolt up!
And probably takes 40hp to operate!
ARGH!
:)

-w
 
P

Peter

Guest
I also converted my system to R134A when the compressor sprang a leak. Rebuilt the compressor with an o'ring kit and fixed the leak. AC is acceptably cold in the 98F temps we're having right now, even at idle. Get a variable orifice expansion valve. It helps low speed efficiency and opens up at higher RPMs. I also replaced the original round tube condensor with a flat tube "upgrade".

Peter
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Peter said:
I also converted my system to R134A when the compressor sprang a leak. Rebuilt the compressor with an o'ring kit and fixed the leak. AC is acceptably cold in the 98F temps we're having right now, even at idle. Get a variable orifice expansion valve. It helps low speed efficiency and opens up at higher RPMs. I also replaced the original round tube condensor with a flat tube "upgrade".

Peter
Click to expand...

where or what can I find this on?
 
P

Peter

Guest
The variable orifice tube is part # 9-2050 by a Automotive Temperature Control Products (ATCP). Supposed to give 8 to 12F colder air at idle and less wear and tear at higher speeds. Seems to work fine. I would recommend it. Cost is about $24, as I recall.

The flat tube condensor is AC Delco #15-6939.

O'ring and seal kit for compressor is Four Seasons #24010.

I did this job 3 years ago, but the part numbers are probably still good.

I bought an R134A conversion kit at AutoZone, and also a new filter/drier. Most of the residual oil stays in the compressor and the filter/drier. So if you dump out the compressor, change the filter/dryer, upgrade the condensor, and blow out the lines with compressed air, there isn't much old oil left. Probably should remove the orifice tube before blowing out the lines. I think mine was out anyway because I replaced it...

I evacuated the system and put in 3 cans 12 oz. each of R134A and 1 can 8 oz. of Ester oil. Ester oil mixes with residual mineral oil. If you've got absolutely all the old oil out, PEG might be a little better oil.

I don't mean this to be complete instructions, but it really isn't too difficult. Oh, one more thing. Lower the low pressure cut out switch setting a couple pounds to about 21 psi. R134A works at a slightly lower pressure on the low end.

Good luck,

Peter
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Peter said:
Lower the low pressure cut out switch setting a couple pounds to about 21 psi. R134A works at a slightly lower pressure on the low end.

Peter
Click to expand...

how do I do this?

and what benifit did you see when you swapped to the flat tube condenser? any lower temps?

did you use the stock lines from say a 93 or so 134 compressor and such?
 
Will_in_China

Will_in_China

Truckless Wonder
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P

Peter

Guest
I can't really quantify the improvement except that it did help. My compressor may be a little worn out and needs all the help it can get. After first converting to R134, the results were "marginal". After putting in the variable orifice valve and the flat tube condensor, the results are quite acceptable.

I used the original hoses. From what I've read, the permeability of freon type hoses is not as bad as originally expected. Especially in retrofit cases. The old hoses have an impermeability coating of oil and products of reaction with the freon and do not leak R134A as much as brand new freon type hoses. My recommendation is to use the old hoses, o'rings, etc and not worry about them.

Three years later, I just this summer had to add my first can of R134A. The symptom was requent cycling of the AC clutch, indicating the low pressure switch was being made as it pumped down. This is usually due to not enough refrigerant.

Peter
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Peter said:
I can't really quantify the improvement except that it did help. My compressor may be a little worn out and needs all the help it can get. After first converting to R134, the results were "marginal". After putting in the variable orifice valve and the flat tube condensor, the results are quite acceptable.
Peter
Click to expand...

what vehilce did the condenser and variable rate valve come from ?
 
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