Chrisssssssss
New member
Well all,
It seems that after I finally got the oil pan off, it seems that a rod somehow snapped in half and this was the cause of my boom. I am not quite sure what caused the rod to snap, just that it did. Upon further inspection, it seems that the centrifugal force of the rod and whatever else was going on in the motor at the moment of boom caused the rod to spin and hit the side of the cylinder wall and create a large chunk of a hole in the side of it - into the coolant journals also taking out a small piece of the crank as well. I am not crying over it, just need some suggestions to get the truck mobile again.
From what I can tell at this point is that all the other 5 cylinders appear ok, but until I rip it completely apart, I will not be able to tell for sure. I am going to list the stuff that was replaced in the last rebuild and if possible to make suggestions on what can or should not be re-used or even upgraded to better technology.
Here's the specs as I know it to be:
Rebuilt at 107000 mi - now has 123000 mi.
*Ultimate V9 chip w/Gauge sized display/control
*Autometer boost gauge
*Walbro high flow fuel pump
*GReddy Profec B (Blue) Spec 2 boost controller
*Stock block bored .030 over & all oil passages/drain ports were debured and smoothed out.
*Stock crank turned down .010 on the mains and .020 on the rods & micro polished.
*New L35 rods shot peened (sp?) for stress relief & machined to accept the Speed Pro floating pins.
*L35 heads slightly worked on the intake side and machined for larger springs.
*Ported stock intake
*Comp Cams springs
*GMPP billet steel 2 bolt main caps
*Z28 oil pump with welded pick-up
*Comp Cams double roller timing chain
*Speed Pro .030 over pistons with coated skirts
*Speed Pro rings
*GMPP 1.6 self align roller rockers
*ARP head studs
*ARP main studs
*GM head gaskets
*Stock cam
*Comp Cams push rods
*Edlbrock aluminum water pump
*Custom alternator bracket tensioner for a/c bracket removal
*Custom 3" down pipe with external wastegate
*B&M flex plate
*Turbo is a T3/T4 hybrid, 57 trim compressor wheel w/.60 a/r housing and a Turbonetics Stage V compressor wheel with a 5 bolt Turbonetics .63 a/r housing.
*MSD 6A
*MSD Blaster GM coil
*Taylor plug wires
*50# injectors
*Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
*TiAL external wastegate
*200amp alternator
*Air to water intercooler 86'd for custom Air to Air
*Razor progressive alky injection
*Optima RedTop
*Taurus (6,000cfm) Electric can w/Factory shroud
*GReddy Type R BOV (mounted at lower IC pipe facing down to avoid alky in engine bay
*A/C removed w/non-A/C heater box and custom bracket
*PermaCool power steering cooler mounted under the radiator
*Permacool tranny cooler w/10" SPAL high flow fan
*HUGE front mount intercool mounted behind factory grill
*Heat wrap on 3" downpipe
*Heat covers on plug boots
*Billet overflow catch can
*K&N cone filter
*AEM Wideband O2 sensor
----------------------------------------------
OK, now, given that there is only about 15-20K since the last rebuild, would any of these existing parts be reusable? Should I get all brand new? I know that brand new would be the best, but overall cost is going to be a factor here. I don't mind replacing if it warrants replacing, but if it is fairly safe to re-use in certain areas, then I would prefer that. For example, like the remaining piston heads? 5 should still be ok. I would like to change out the rods for a beefier version like a set of eagle I beams or something that will be able to handle the increased pressures of the rebuilt motor better than the stock L35's that were obviously the weak link in the motor, causing this to need to be done.
So, by there being a hole in the side of the existing block cylinder wall, it will definitely need replacing. What should be done in this case? Should I just look for a L35 block, bore it 30 over and pretty much keep it the same as I already have, or try and look for a vortech block and heads and build that one up while I am at this stage anyways? What would be the necessary changes and the advantages of going Vortech rather than L35?
I will have to do a new crank. Any Suggestions here?
What about a cam? What are the best thoughts here?
Is there anything else that I should think about at this stage?
I think that I may have found a shop that is nearby to do the build. They are very unfamiliar with the truck, but they are a performance shop that specializes in forced induction on mostly VW's and they are extremely busy and from what I gather from talking to them is that they are very knowledgeable about the art of tuning turbos and they seemed like they were interested in taking on the build. The head tech I talked to said that he is in the middle of a couple of builds right now, but they should be finished toward the end of the month, and I should bring the truck past the shop then. He said that he will look at the truck and take it somewhat apart to see what happened and how things look on the inside. He said that he would do a bit of research this week from home to see what he can come up with. He said that he would also let me know before he does anything he would let me know whether he feels comfortable about the build, or pass it on to someone else if he has any doubts that may lead to bad results. Overall I get a good vibe about it and by talking to them, seems like it may be a possibility. The best part is that they live about 5 minutes walk down the street, so I will be close by and able to "supervise" the build, also maybe relaying any questions or concerns to the forum if he has anything that comes up.
So basically I need some direction and possible suggestions on what path to take here as I am going to be looking at doing it right, but money is as always going to be a huge factor, especially since I don't have a lot, but will spend it if necessary and warrants spending. I plan on keeping this truck for a long time, but would like to have it be reliable and also able to go. Any and all comments are welcome and much appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help.
Cheers
Chris
It seems that after I finally got the oil pan off, it seems that a rod somehow snapped in half and this was the cause of my boom. I am not quite sure what caused the rod to snap, just that it did. Upon further inspection, it seems that the centrifugal force of the rod and whatever else was going on in the motor at the moment of boom caused the rod to spin and hit the side of the cylinder wall and create a large chunk of a hole in the side of it - into the coolant journals also taking out a small piece of the crank as well. I am not crying over it, just need some suggestions to get the truck mobile again.
From what I can tell at this point is that all the other 5 cylinders appear ok, but until I rip it completely apart, I will not be able to tell for sure. I am going to list the stuff that was replaced in the last rebuild and if possible to make suggestions on what can or should not be re-used or even upgraded to better technology.
Here's the specs as I know it to be:
Rebuilt at 107000 mi - now has 123000 mi.
*Ultimate V9 chip w/Gauge sized display/control
*Autometer boost gauge
*Walbro high flow fuel pump
*GReddy Profec B (Blue) Spec 2 boost controller
*Stock block bored .030 over & all oil passages/drain ports were debured and smoothed out.
*Stock crank turned down .010 on the mains and .020 on the rods & micro polished.
*New L35 rods shot peened (sp?) for stress relief & machined to accept the Speed Pro floating pins.
*L35 heads slightly worked on the intake side and machined for larger springs.
*Ported stock intake
*Comp Cams springs
*GMPP billet steel 2 bolt main caps
*Z28 oil pump with welded pick-up
*Comp Cams double roller timing chain
*Speed Pro .030 over pistons with coated skirts
*Speed Pro rings
*GMPP 1.6 self align roller rockers
*ARP head studs
*ARP main studs
*GM head gaskets
*Stock cam
*Comp Cams push rods
*Edlbrock aluminum water pump
*Custom alternator bracket tensioner for a/c bracket removal
*Custom 3" down pipe with external wastegate
*B&M flex plate
*Turbo is a T3/T4 hybrid, 57 trim compressor wheel w/.60 a/r housing and a Turbonetics Stage V compressor wheel with a 5 bolt Turbonetics .63 a/r housing.
*MSD 6A
*MSD Blaster GM coil
*Taylor plug wires
*50# injectors
*Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
*TiAL external wastegate
*200amp alternator
*Air to water intercooler 86'd for custom Air to Air
*Razor progressive alky injection
*Optima RedTop
*Taurus (6,000cfm) Electric can w/Factory shroud
*GReddy Type R BOV (mounted at lower IC pipe facing down to avoid alky in engine bay
*A/C removed w/non-A/C heater box and custom bracket
*PermaCool power steering cooler mounted under the radiator
*Permacool tranny cooler w/10" SPAL high flow fan
*HUGE front mount intercool mounted behind factory grill
*Heat wrap on 3" downpipe
*Heat covers on plug boots
*Billet overflow catch can
*K&N cone filter
*AEM Wideband O2 sensor
----------------------------------------------
OK, now, given that there is only about 15-20K since the last rebuild, would any of these existing parts be reusable? Should I get all brand new? I know that brand new would be the best, but overall cost is going to be a factor here. I don't mind replacing if it warrants replacing, but if it is fairly safe to re-use in certain areas, then I would prefer that. For example, like the remaining piston heads? 5 should still be ok. I would like to change out the rods for a beefier version like a set of eagle I beams or something that will be able to handle the increased pressures of the rebuilt motor better than the stock L35's that were obviously the weak link in the motor, causing this to need to be done.
So, by there being a hole in the side of the existing block cylinder wall, it will definitely need replacing. What should be done in this case? Should I just look for a L35 block, bore it 30 over and pretty much keep it the same as I already have, or try and look for a vortech block and heads and build that one up while I am at this stage anyways? What would be the necessary changes and the advantages of going Vortech rather than L35?
I will have to do a new crank. Any Suggestions here?
What about a cam? What are the best thoughts here?
Is there anything else that I should think about at this stage?
I think that I may have found a shop that is nearby to do the build. They are very unfamiliar with the truck, but they are a performance shop that specializes in forced induction on mostly VW's and they are extremely busy and from what I gather from talking to them is that they are very knowledgeable about the art of tuning turbos and they seemed like they were interested in taking on the build. The head tech I talked to said that he is in the middle of a couple of builds right now, but they should be finished toward the end of the month, and I should bring the truck past the shop then. He said that he will look at the truck and take it somewhat apart to see what happened and how things look on the inside. He said that he would do a bit of research this week from home to see what he can come up with. He said that he would also let me know before he does anything he would let me know whether he feels comfortable about the build, or pass it on to someone else if he has any doubts that may lead to bad results. Overall I get a good vibe about it and by talking to them, seems like it may be a possibility. The best part is that they live about 5 minutes walk down the street, so I will be close by and able to "supervise" the build, also maybe relaying any questions or concerns to the forum if he has anything that comes up.
So basically I need some direction and possible suggestions on what path to take here as I am going to be looking at doing it right, but money is as always going to be a huge factor, especially since I don't have a lot, but will spend it if necessary and warrants spending. I plan on keeping this truck for a long time, but would like to have it be reliable and also able to go. Any and all comments are welcome and much appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help.
Cheers
Chris