Throttle Body Idle Screw Adjustment

G.D. Bryson

New member
Greetings all! My '92 Ty stalls at ecceleration fron idle, and idle hunts. My GM Ty/Sy Supplement X-9276 indicates the throttle body idle screw is "preset at factory" and offers no baseline information. One of the knuckle heads at a GMC garage told me they used this screw to "adjust the idle"! Since then, having free time for hobbies, I bought GMs manuals and take care of the truck myself, but I'm struggling with the above symptoms. Any advice on a baseline idle setting (with IAC disconnected)? PS: Timing is correct, TPS is .5v, EGR Valve is new, checked all vacuum lines, and I show no codes. Thanks to all.
 

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
the idle adjustment screw is under a cap that must be removed before adjusting it. I usually just bend the throttle arm as most of those screws are siezed in theirs bores after 12 +yrs in service.
 
Before you go that route a couple things to try....
1. remove intercooler and spray TB cleaner into IAC passagehile reving engine.
2. completly disconnect the vacum line to the egr and see if there is any improvement
3.This will set code....but, with car off you can disconnect senors and then start truck with them diconnected(one at a time) This will put in a preset value for the sensor disconnected, if the problem goes away you found the bad senor

Sensors I would try are the MAP sensor, and TPS even though you already checked it. Also does it do it when hot, cold or it doesnt matter. Let me know Fern
Sy#466
 

TyMeUp

New member
Fern's right, but don't just do the IAC passage. Use a 3M brand 'Throttle Body Cleaner' and an old tooth brush. With the engine off, block the throttle wide open and clean away all the black 'crud' you can see on the throttle blades and in the TB bores. You can also remove the IAC valve to clean the passage and the valve pintle (be careful not to get cleaner into the electrical part - hold the valve with the pintle down while cleaning).

In general, the idle stop screw does not control idle speed. The ECM does this with the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve in an air bypass passage. The idle speed is programmed into the PROM. The factory setting for the idle stop screw provides a base air flow past the throttle plates. The ECM commands the IAC open to add more air for a typical controlled idle speed of 750 - 850 RPM. If the IAC were closed down* or its passage were blocked, the closed throttle blades would allow a warmed-up engine to idle at about 500-600 RPM with no load.

A quick check for normal air flow past the closed throttle is to read the IAC counts with a 'scan' tool or program. At a warm idle with transmission in park and A/C off, the counts should be between 009 - 021. If counts are high (> 021), suspect low airflow past the throttle blades. This could be because they need cleaning, or they were 'adjusted' too far closed. If the counts are low (< 009), suspect extra air entering the intake from some other source besides the throttle (this could also be called a vacuum leak). If no vacuum leaks are found, then check the throttle for being 'adjusted' too far open.

If you find that someone has removed the plug and 'adjusted' the idle screw, you can get it close by backing the screw out until the tip no longer contacts the throttle stop. Then turn the screw slowly back in until it just makes contact. Finally, turn the screw in an additional 1 1/2 turns. Use locktite on the screw so it doesn't move with vibration. If the throttle stop was 'adjusted' by bending it, you should remove the plug and follow the above proceedure. If the screw is siezed, you'll have to bend the linkage. Make sure the throttle body is clean and that there are no vacuum leaks. Use a 'scan' tool to read the counts as you bend the linkage. Shoot for 015 counts.

* To completely close down the IAC, start with the engine at idle, and slowly remove a large vacuum hose (ie. power brake hose). The engine speed should increase over 1500 RPM while the ECM tries to control it by closing the IAC air passage (counts go to 000). Next, unplug the IAC electrical connector. When you slowly plug the vacuun hose back in, the engine will slow down to it's 'base idle' speed because the IAC can no longer add air to that which goes past the nearly closed throttle blades.
 

G.D. Bryson

New member
Thank you both for info. TyMeUp: The GM Fuel & Emissions Service Manual (X-9236, page 4-55) notes a "minimum idle speed check for 7.4L with TBI 220" which directs grounding diagnostic term at ALDL, key on eng off for 10 sec to extend IACV in passage, disconnect IAC connector, then start eng and check idle rpm. It refers to "minimum idle speed chart" and recommends usiing the idle stop screw to adjust. Any reason grounding the diagnostic term procedure will harm the Ty...? The bores in throttle body were kinda dirty, but cleaned up easy as did the IAC passage and EGR passage; I had the plenum off while changing fuel injectors. I checked IAC pintle length and reinstalled with new gasket. I'll try your recommendation for the screw tomorrow and let ya know how it goes. I do not as yet have a scan tool but had the Ty hooked up to my fav GM Tech's Tech-1 last week. Block learn mem was 138 - a little lean, and it appears the check valve in fuel pump is gone away altho it holds steady pressure while running. This GM pump lasted almost 2 years; I guess that's good, but it gets an aftermarket this time! Thanx again.
 

manitoufs

Member
The idle position is adjustable and should be the first thing you do before tearing things apart. It is a Torx head screw. You do need a scan tool to do it properly. The IAC position should be, in my experience, between 14 and 50 at idle with a warm engine.
 

tallcoolone

New member
idle screw

idle screw

Where is the idle stop screw/where is this cap? My dilemna is I tried to remove IACV except pintle/valve portion can't be removed.It wiggles but for some reason the diameter of the pintle can't get past the opening.So now my vehicle idle is consistently high. My goal was to change/clean IACV opening.Now I have a bigger problem..Any help appreciated...
 

TyMeUp

New member
Re: idle screw

Re: idle screw

tallcoolone said:
Where is the idle stop screw/where is this cap?
When looking at the throttle body from the front of the engine, the stop screw will be situated horizontally inside the casting boss just above the throttle shaft. The 'stop' end can be seen on the left between the casting and the throttle bracket stop tab. The sheet metal cap will be on the right side of the casting boss.

tallcoolone said:
My dilemna is I tried to remove IACV except pintle/valve portion can't be removed.It wiggles but for some reason the diameter of the pintle can't get past the opening.So now my vehicle idle is consistently high. My goal was to change/clean IACV opening.Now I have a bigger problem..Any help appreciated...
This is probably caused by a very heavy deposit build-up inside the passage. If you can back out the valve far enough to create an opening past the threads, spray throttle body cleaner into the passage and let it sit long enough to dissolve the 'crud'. For heavy deposit build-up, the service manual actually recommends removing the throttle body from the engine and pulling the bottom cover off to clean this pasage.
 
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