Silly Q, but is the brake pedal/ switch ass adjusted good? Easy way to check that is drive with your foot against the back of the pedal lifting it up.
if the switch is going bad
it will lock and unlock randomly- using cruise control At 45MPH will make it kick in and out.
my grand national did this for about a month.
That's a really good reminder, Ken. I forgot about CTS influence.I had same issue with my truck I had too low of a T-stat in truck changed to 180 problem solved
Right now, I don't think it's the brake switch. I want to drive it with a jumper in the ALDL terminals, which will lock the TCC =ON. If the ECM control is responsible for the jumping in and out, then this will override the ECM. If it does it with it locked ON, then it could be the brake switch.
Thanks for the input.
That's a really good reminder, Ken. I forgot about CTS influence.
I had it on an Auto-X-Ray scanner this afternoon. CTS was 182º. It's a stock PROM, so 182º should be fine.
Thanks for the input.
I had the issue with a 160 stat, and cannot remember what coolant temp must be for lockup to occur
I've blown 3 more fuses testing this thing. I'm now leaning towards it being a bad TCC Solenoid. Genocide gets the SyTy bucks. I think what's happening is the solenoid is semi-shorted internally. The resistance gets low enough that the ECM can't sink the increased amperage to ground, and the solenoid drops out. If I over-ride the ECM with the jumper to ground, the increased current blows the fuse.
I'm taking it to Reno for Thanksgiving to spend the holiday with my transmission builder buddy and his family. I'll leave it at his shop, and he and I can go down on Friday and change the solenoid out after its cooled off. I don't feel like messing with it before I leave on Wednesday morning.
Thanks for the help and interest.