small dilema with engine knock(kinda long sorry)

Ok, well my Ty hasnt lead a pampered life like some out there and has 162,9xx miles on it that for the most part have been daily driver with little maintaince over the years until something broke, then money was spent.

Anywasy i bought it back in december as a non running theft recovery from Boosted in Kansas City for 2500 bucks and trailered it home, a week later after eplacing the steering column and fuel pump, and fuel lines on the sumped stock tank and rewiring the fuel pump relay i got it running and when i first started it up i noticed a small cold start knock in the bottom end of the motor, well a few months later i had the engine out to replace the broken factory mounts with RPM frame pads and solid mounts/poly trans mount, ZQ8 steering box and new idler and pitman arm and cleaned up and painted the engine cmpartment alittle.

Anyways i had thought about taking the oil pan off and checking the bearings, but decided that i didnt want to open a can of worms i couldnt afford to close at the time, so i basically powerwashed the complete engine, installed new gaskets from the lower intake up and got her back together and running and with some tuning and a few new parts by the times in my sig id say she is running pretty good.

Well now the small cold start knock is getting worse, and in park at around 2500-3K you can really hear a rod or 2 knocking pretty good. And with it all wormed up and in drive at a stop light the oil psi guage is almost reading nothing and is in the middle when cruising down the freeway. The other day i filled it up and when i got back in to leave and started it up, the oil psi guage read nothing and the check engine and check guages lights were on, well i gave it a second or two and then shut it off, checked everything and found no problems and restarted it and it showed pressure, so im not sure if it was maybe just the guage.

So now im going to be done with school here in a few weeks and will be off for 2 weeks befoe i start back up again and am thinking about yanking the engine and having the crank turned and installing new main and rod bearings and a new oil pump and pick up. And wanted to get some feedback as to weather some of the more experienced members here think this is a good idea or not?

Id love to be able to rebuild the whole motor, but i just dont have the funds, and not even close to it. I had to do this same thing to my first car, a 68 Olds with a 455 that lost all oil pressure when hot, turned out to be bad mains, had crank turned and installed new main and rods and she ran great for another 6 months till it broke #5 piston and that was it.

but now im thinking the problem is more of a rod, and really the rod(s) should be resized when you install new bearings? But that gets much more expensive with having to buy head geaskets and more machine work, and then i might as well just rebuild the whole short block and get it over with.......right?


Im just not sure what to do, but something is going to have to be done pretty quick or im going to run out of options.


Thanks for the feedback everybody.
 

Teeleton

Non-Boosted
Re: small dilema with engine knock(kinda long sorry)

I smell a motor yank weekend coming up. :D

Call the machine shop and see how long it would take to get the crank back. When they did my crank, they provided rod and main bearings matched to the crank's new specs. I wouldn't think you would need any main or rod work unless you have a spun bearing, or the knock is bad enough to have pounded the bearing seat badly.

Also, if you're going to be pulling the pistons and rods out of the block, with 162k on the clock, it might not be a bad idea to put a new set of rings in and put a crosshatch back on the bores with a hone so they'll seat properly. A set of rings and a small hone shouldn't break the bank too bad.

Teeleton
 
Re: small dilema with engine knock(kinda long sorry)

Teeleton said:
I smell a motor yank weekend coming up. :D

Call the machine shop and see how long it would take to get the crank back. When they did my crank, they provided rod and main bearings matched to the crank's new specs. I wouldn't think you would need any main or rod work unless you have a spun bearing, or the knock is bad enough to have pounded the bearing seat badly.

Also, if you're going to be pulling the pistons and rods out of the block, with 162k on the clock, it might not be a bad idea to put a new set of rings in and put a crosshatch back on the bores with a hone so they'll seat properly. A set of rings and a small hone shouldn't break the bank too bad.

Teeleton



well i found a place on ebay that has a freshly machined crank with matching main and rod bearings for 160 plus 25 shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8066271322&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
I then found some Perfect Circle STD Moly rings for 30 bucks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7958947190&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
i even found a set of pistons that were STD for 83 bucks that said there were liqui forged they are clevite brand and have a recessed head with 4 valve reliefs---These are a Hyperutectic piston, just not sure what my CR would be with them.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8054249735&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
Any Idea if these will work in a SyTy motor??
Thinging about upgrading to stronger ARP rod bolts, found a set for 70 bucks shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8061413461&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT


well i also found a complete TBI 4.3L out of a 91 silverado in Folsom LA starting bid 100 bucks no reserve, and im the vurrent high bidder at 100 bucks. says it has 120K miles and runs great, it has a 5 speed manual that goes with it if i want it in the deal. I figure the stock CR cant be much higher than my Ty engine is, the stock SyTY was 8.35 and wasnt the regular TBI engine like 8.5 or 9.0 maybe i could just swap that engine into my truck and then start getting parts to rebuild my original engine.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8070562945&ssPageName=STRK:MEBI:IT
 

Bill Z

Donating Member
Re: small dilema with engine knock(kinda long sorry)

Mike,

Stronger is always better providing you got the buck$. Do what you can afford but try to do as much as you can.

I'll help you pull it and put it back again.
 
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