Slicks question
- Thread starter Don W.
- Start date
It's just a six
Super Member
Re: Slicks question
M/T drag radials
M/T drag radials
Flyin Ryan
hated cuz he drives fords
Re: Slicks question
i agree
dgoodhue said:
i agree
NOJIMMY
New member
Re: Slicks question
<...not to be difficult, but>
It may be a bit hard to make specific recommendations as there are unstated preferences, like:
-whether your talking about a pure slick, or Dot approved tire, "cheater slick", or partially treaded tire
-desired tire and wheel sizes (some manufacturers dont make certain widths, dia, or tire sizes)
-desired street/strip goals (tread depth, wear, handling, softness, desired temp range)
-whether daily driving, moisture, pot holes, debris pickup, state-laws/licensing, insurance legalities are important
-whether bias ply, tubes, rim screws/locks, or radials are desired (with/without tire growth, high speed wiggling, sidewall construction/blowout, etc)
-whether weight, suspension corrections, braking, cornering, trailoring & cost/availability are to be considered
Some buick GN folks have said
Tires I have used and best 60' with each:
BFG DR, 275/60-15, 1.777
Nitto DR, 275/60-15, 1.761
MT ET Street, 26x10.5x15, 1.639
Hoosier QTP, 27x10.5x15, 1.593
MT Sportsman Pro, 26x10.5x15, 1.592
MT ET Street DR, 255/60-15, 1.506
Launch boost was usually between 4#-7#.
(Note that these are 15" rims, and on a rwd vehicle however).
But others on this site have used green-dot/retreads to accomplish quite a bit.
Even manufacturers, magazines, and tire shops can't agree to recommending a perfect street/strip tire. M&H (for example) would like to think their brand is best for awd characteristics (but I dont know of many owners using them).
As you know, track conditions, street conditions, and proper burnout also play
a role (along with front end limitors, traction bars, shocks, springs, diff ratios, etc)
-sorry (just my
)
Larry
Don W. said:
<...not to be difficult, but>
It may be a bit hard to make specific recommendations as there are unstated preferences, like:
-whether your talking about a pure slick, or Dot approved tire, "cheater slick", or partially treaded tire
-desired tire and wheel sizes (some manufacturers dont make certain widths, dia, or tire sizes)
-desired street/strip goals (tread depth, wear, handling, softness, desired temp range)
-whether daily driving, moisture, pot holes, debris pickup, state-laws/licensing, insurance legalities are important
-whether bias ply, tubes, rim screws/locks, or radials are desired (with/without tire growth, high speed wiggling, sidewall construction/blowout, etc)
-whether weight, suspension corrections, braking, cornering, trailoring & cost/availability are to be considered
Some buick GN folks have said
Tires I have used and best 60' with each:
BFG DR, 275/60-15, 1.777
Nitto DR, 275/60-15, 1.761
MT ET Street, 26x10.5x15, 1.639
Hoosier QTP, 27x10.5x15, 1.593
MT Sportsman Pro, 26x10.5x15, 1.592
MT ET Street DR, 255/60-15, 1.506
Launch boost was usually between 4#-7#.
(Note that these are 15" rims, and on a rwd vehicle however).
But others on this site have used green-dot/retreads to accomplish quite a bit.
Even manufacturers, magazines, and tire shops can't agree to recommending a perfect street/strip tire. M&H (for example) would like to think their brand is best for awd characteristics (but I dont know of many owners using them).
As you know, track conditions, street conditions, and proper burnout also play
a role (along with front end limitors, traction bars, shocks, springs, diff ratios, etc)
-sorry (just my
Larry
It's just a six
Super Member
Re: Slicks question
I heard the BFG darg radials are bad on the street .
Nittos are absolutly horrible in the wet.
Since he will not be doing burnouts to heat up the tires, M/T drag radials will suit him best I would say,he did not say he is looking for the best tire for street driving,only stated he will not be doing burnouts.
I heard the BFG darg radials are bad on the street .
Nittos are absolutly horrible in the wet.
Since he will not be doing burnouts to heat up the tires, M/T drag radials will suit him best I would say,he did not say he is looking for the best tire for street driving,only stated he will not be doing burnouts.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Slicks question
Pretty much all DR suck in the rain. From what I have read the Nitto and BFG are the most drivable. Nitto's are typically know as the hardest and longest lastign of the DR. M/T are the softest.
I am glad you infered he doesn't care about driving on the street.
It's just a six said:
Pretty much all DR suck in the rain. From what I have read the Nitto and BFG are the most drivable. Nitto's are typically know as the hardest and longest lastign of the DR. M/T are the softest.
It's just a six said:
I am glad you infered he doesn't care about driving on the street.
It's just a six
Super Member
Re: Slicks question
I'm glad you infered his main concern is driving on the street.
:rotf:
dgoodhue said:
I'm glad you infered his main concern is driving on the street.
:rotf:
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Slicks question
Good info, Larry.
One issue we deal with AWD is the stickiness of the tires without heat from burnout. It not alway easy to correlate what is fast on RWD to our our AWD. Most of the DR are designed maximum adhesion with a burn out, but aren't nearly as sticky in normal driving temperature (Particularly BFG and Nitto's) This helps with tread life, but doesn't help us out as much. I have noticed over the years, that their doesn't seem to be large difference between those running BFG drag radials and normal street tires in terms of 60's compared to RWD owners. Their seems to be a difference, but not huge difference in that I could look at most time slips and easily figure out if they are running street tires or DR.
I have tried search other fast AWD forum and I could never seem to find a good sticky tire at normal driving temperature. A lot them seem to just use Nitto or BFG's DR's.
NOJIMMY said:
Good info, Larry.
One issue we deal with AWD is the stickiness of the tires without heat from burnout. It not alway easy to correlate what is fast on RWD to our our AWD. Most of the DR are designed maximum adhesion with a burn out, but aren't nearly as sticky in normal driving temperature (Particularly BFG and Nitto's) This helps with tread life, but doesn't help us out as much. I have noticed over the years, that their doesn't seem to be large difference between those running BFG drag radials and normal street tires in terms of 60's compared to RWD owners. Their seems to be a difference, but not huge difference in that I could look at most time slips and easily figure out if they are running street tires or DR.
I have tried search other fast AWD forum and I could never seem to find a good sticky tire at normal driving temperature. A lot them seem to just use Nitto or BFG's DR's.
sy#2921
BAMF
Re: Slicks question
I have used BFG's for 2 years now. They have about 5k miles on them and still hook well mid to low 1.6's and low boost launches. Im sure I can get more with pressure adjustments and more boost but i dont want to snap anything off the line. I do have 275/40/17 all around.
My next set of DR's will be the new hoosier's. I checked them out yesterday at an expo and they were super soft but actually had some treadlife rating
I have used BFG's for 2 years now. They have about 5k miles on them and still hook well mid to low 1.6's and low boost launches. Im sure I can get more with pressure adjustments and more boost but i dont want to snap anything off the line. I do have 275/40/17 all around.
My next set of DR's will be the new hoosier's. I checked them out yesterday at an expo and they were super soft but actually had some treadlife rating
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Slicks question
Wow! Great responses guys. :tup: Really appreciate it. I may drive them on the street but, like I said, I'm mainly looking for traction at the line. I'm getting quite a bit of wheel spin as my tune improves and boost launches just aren't working very well. I have access to some Camaro wheels so will prolly be switching at the track, as much as possible. Meaning if I'm lazy I would switch to the DR's at the track then come home on them to change back later. :lol:
They will have to be street (DOT) slicks to stay in my class.
Thanks again and, of course, further comments appreciated.
Wow! Great responses guys. :tup: Really appreciate it. I may drive them on the street but, like I said, I'm mainly looking for traction at the line. I'm getting quite a bit of wheel spin as my tune improves and boost launches just aren't working very well. I have access to some Camaro wheels so will prolly be switching at the track, as much as possible. Meaning if I'm lazy I would switch to the DR's at the track then come home on them to change back later. :lol:
They will have to be street (DOT) slicks to stay in my class.
Thanks again and, of course, further comments appreciated.
autoaddictions
Active member
Re: Slicks question
Im running 305/35/18 bfg and they seem ok for daily driving. They do tend to sling rocks up. I never had good luck with the nittos. You have to really heat them up to hook up.
Im running 305/35/18 bfg and they seem ok for daily driving. They do tend to sling rocks up. I never had good luck with the nittos. You have to really heat them up to hook up.
ed hess
race or get outta the way
Re: Slicks question
if you want to be competitive in your class then.... Why skip the burnout!?!?!
stand on the brakes (linelocks would be real helpfull here), put it to the floor, when its as high on the tc as you can go without creep let go of the brake and let it rip, as soon as its spinning back on the brakes and off the throttle. always worked for me.
ed
Don W. said:
if you want to be competitive in your class then.... Why skip the burnout!?!?!
stand on the brakes (linelocks would be real helpfull here), put it to the floor, when its as high on the tc as you can go without creep let go of the brake and let it rip, as soon as its spinning back on the brakes and off the throttle. always worked for me.
ed
It's just a six
Super Member
Re: Slicks question
You did this w/a pretty much stock engine & a 2100 RPM stall converter? & it worked?
ed hess said:
You did this w/a pretty much stock engine & a 2100 RPM stall converter? & it worked?
ed hess
race or get outta the way
Re: Slicks question
the combination doesnt matter!
heres why. you want to be able to spin from a standstill.
you will be able to do this. heck you do it now from the line using whatever tires you have.
put your truck in the water, especially the rear tires.
bring it up on boost without moving. under boost you will see that the rated stall of 2100 will move way up as you put a boosted load on it.
the trick is beingable to get your brakes to hold it still without moving forward.
go try it with your existing tires and report back.
report backjust how high you can get the rpms to goto without the truck moving. its all in the brake setup!
It's just a six said:
the combination doesnt matter!
heres why. you want to be able to spin from a standstill.
you will be able to do this. heck you do it now from the line using whatever tires you have.
put your truck in the water, especially the rear tires.
bring it up on boost without moving. under boost you will see that the rated stall of 2100 will move way up as you put a boosted load on it.
the trick is beingable to get your brakes to hold it still without moving forward.
go try it with your existing tires and report back.
report backjust how high you can get the rpms to goto without the truck moving. its all in the brake setup!
ed hess
race or get outta the way
Re: Slicks question
what i described was just as simple as the method and steps i said.
only thing i left out was the harder you stay on the throttle the more spin you will get and the straighter it will move in the burnout.
if your not hard enough on it you can expect the rear to go to the right or left.
after a few times you will begin to see what i mean on making it come out straight by being on it harder.
ed
Silly said:
what i described was just as simple as the method and steps i said.
only thing i left out was the harder you stay on the throttle the more spin you will get and the straighter it will move in the burnout.
if your not hard enough on it you can expect the rear to go to the right or left.
after a few times you will begin to see what i mean on making it come out straight by being on it harder.
ed
turbodig
Active member
Re: Slicks question
I've done it this way as well... but it's no place for wussies. Really gotta hit it hard to keep the fronts from "chattering".
I did this with a stock motor, 20g, and a 2800 stall converter. I generally had 15 psi on the gauge when I let go of the brakes.
Only problem is when the guy at the line decides to bend over and wipe something up in the stage area. After I cleaned my shorts, I had a 'conversation' with him. I probably thwarted natural selection by not hitting him, but I really didn't need any more problems.
ed hess said:
I've done it this way as well... but it's no place for wussies. Really gotta hit it hard to keep the fronts from "chattering".
I did this with a stock motor, 20g, and a 2800 stall converter. I generally had 15 psi on the gauge when I let go of the brakes.
Only problem is when the guy at the line decides to bend over and wipe something up in the stage area. After I cleaned my shorts, I had a 'conversation' with him. I probably thwarted natural selection by not hitting him, but I really didn't need any more problems.