Pulling an engine
- Thread starter gkrcr882
- Start date
DanenGraham
Big in the rear
Um.. the 4.3 isnt that big. not to hard to do i guess, you can leave the head on, but i would pull as much off as you can while its still in there.
search ownz
search ownz
syclonekid43
New member
easiest way i think. pull the front clip off. and yank out motor and tranny one shot
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
DynaGlide said:
I supose its what your use to. I didn't have any problems with swivel sockets and the right extension getting them. They looked difficult but they were do able and a lot easier than intially expected. I had a Japaneese car where I had to pull the intake so someone could their hand on the swivel socket from below so it wouldn't slip off.
Syclone#2960
What ever it takes!!
I removed the entire front body. Then I removed the the body mounts to the cab to raise it a little to gain easy access to the bell housing bolts.
Good luck and take lots of pics. :tup:
________
Washington Medical Marijuana Dispensary
Good luck and take lots of pics. :tup:
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Washington Medical Marijuana Dispensary
Last edited:
nightdiver
Active member
Its not that difficult. Remove the bellhousing bolts first, then the radiator, downpipe , mount bolts, wires, oil filter adapter, gas hoses, W2A, hood etc
Maxtor
New member
DynaGlide said:
A couple of tricks that may help, especially if you have a Sy. You can take out the front two cab bolts, and loosen the rear two. Put a small bottle jack under each side of the cab with 2x4's, and you can raise the front of the cab at least 1" which will allow you a clear view of the top 2 bellhousing bolts. Lay on your back under the truck and get a couple of long extensions with a swivel socket and it's a piece of cake.
One of the bellhousing bolts on the passenger side, don't remember which one, interferes with the body seam (actually a stud). I made a ground off deep well socket for this bolt to clear the body seam without bending the s*&t out of it.
For the motor mounts, an impact makes all the difference in the world. All you need to do is get a wrench on the other side to hold the nut, then take it off with the impact.
Leave as much on the engine as possible, including the turbo. It's a lot easier to get to this stuff when the motor is out of the truck. Your knuckles will thank you.
supersports10
New member
:-? hmmmmmm all this talk about body mounts, and cab jacking, i cant believe it!!
ive changed a s-10 tranny about 30 different times, and some of them had a v8 in them, so the motor and tranny were moved further backwards than factory, and you can get them out without jacking up the cab, all you need is a swivel, and about 3 10" extensions and a ratchet, then take out the crossmember and lower the rear of the tranny, and WOLA!! now you have access to the bellhousing bolts.
also i just got done putting a tranny in my 92 4x4 jimmy, and underneath its the same as a sy/ty, and i was able to get ALL of the bellhousing bolts from the bottom with extensions.
EXCEPT the 2nd one up on the drivers side, it required a 9/16 wrench because of the body seam.
ive done the cab jacking thing before on rusted out trucks, where the cab mounts were broken, but its not worth the hassle , and not to mention the possible broken cab bolts, that follows :tup: :2cents:
ive changed a s-10 tranny about 30 different times, and some of them had a v8 in them, so the motor and tranny were moved further backwards than factory, and you can get them out without jacking up the cab, all you need is a swivel, and about 3 10" extensions and a ratchet, then take out the crossmember and lower the rear of the tranny, and WOLA!! now you have access to the bellhousing bolts.
also i just got done putting a tranny in my 92 4x4 jimmy, and underneath its the same as a sy/ty, and i was able to get ALL of the bellhousing bolts from the bottom with extensions.
EXCEPT the 2nd one up on the drivers side, it required a 9/16 wrench because of the body seam.
ive done the cab jacking thing before on rusted out trucks, where the cab mounts were broken, but its not worth the hassle , and not to mention the possible broken cab bolts, that follows :tup: :2cents:
i did it by removing the front clip and jacking up the cab....not having to work under the truck makes this method more than worth while...i totally agree with mark on completely assembling the motor before reinstalling...i came this close to yanking my motor the other day to do my vortecs...
here's two pics of the cab jacked up...take note of the body lines in the second pic...
here's two pics of the cab jacked up...take note of the body lines in the second pic...
Maxtor
New member
[quote="supersports10]ive done the cab jacking thing before on rusted out trucks, where the cab mounts were broken, but its not worth the hassle , and not to mention the possible broken cab bolts, that follows :tup: :2cents:[/quote]
Never considered the two front cab bolts a hassle...... usually about 5 sec to remove both them with an impact and about another 2-3 min to jack up the cab. Certainly easier than taking out the tranny cross member and dropping the entire transmission/transfer case.
You must have had a bad experience!
Never considered the two front cab bolts a hassle...... usually about 5 sec to remove both them with an impact and about another 2-3 min to jack up the cab. Certainly easier than taking out the tranny cross member and dropping the entire transmission/transfer case.
You must have had a bad experience!
gkrcr882
SyTyless......for now!
thanks for all the help everyone, and ive talked to jwaller about building an engine. we just have to finalize getting the truck and were ready to roll. we have everything required to remove the engine here at the house (compressor, air impact, set of Snap-On pro tools..) and we have an engine hoist at my school. i guess pictures dont do justice, because to me the syclone engine looks bigger (more bolt-ons) than the naturally aspirated one. thanks again crew!!!! :rock:
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
having the right tools makes all the difference.. Over time you start to collect some special tools to assist those PITA hard to get to syty bolts.
I probably average 3 hrs by myself. Work smarter, not harder! No need to do half the stuff guys are recommending. It does help and makes extra room, but also takes twice as long to do the job. Do yourself a favor and buy all the universal sockets you can. They are the best thing since sliced bread.
I probably average 3 hrs by myself. Work smarter, not harder! No need to do half the stuff guys are recommending. It does help and makes extra room, but also takes twice as long to do the job. Do yourself a favor and buy all the universal sockets you can. They are the best thing since sliced bread.
mike,
your front clip is off in your avatar.. :lol: i've gotten pretty good at removing s-series body parts....i think it all boils down to what's easier for the individual...it took me 5 minutes to remove all the bell housing bolts from the front of the truck....this was just after an hour to pull the clip...whenever i pulled my typhoon engine, i couldn't even "see" the top bolts....raising the cab on a sy, helps with alot more than the bolt access for engine removal...raising the cab on a sy really pays off when replacing the motor....anybody that has done it knows what i mean....well worth the extra couple of hours imo...lastly, you can't drink beer while under the truck....
your front clip is off in your avatar.. :lol: i've gotten pretty good at removing s-series body parts....i think it all boils down to what's easier for the individual...it took me 5 minutes to remove all the bell housing bolts from the front of the truck....this was just after an hour to pull the clip...whenever i pulled my typhoon engine, i couldn't even "see" the top bolts....raising the cab on a sy, helps with alot more than the bolt access for engine removal...raising the cab on a sy really pays off when replacing the motor....anybody that has done it knows what i mean....well worth the extra couple of hours imo...lastly, you can't drink beer while under the truck....
ed hess
race or get outta the way
ghettosled said:
i gotta say the same thing as mike
looks like a lot of you taking front ends off and dropping difs, doing all kinds of unnecessary labor to simply pull the motor.
get your hands on a service manual, see the steps listed in the recommended order and make life easy.
ed
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
93ty475 said:
thats because i did a little more then just pull the motor :rock: