Prepping truck for T76 and A2A install

PPI Typhoon

DIY Madman
Ok, I talked to my guy about getting the DP and IC piping fabbed up for the Ty yesterday. I need to get the truck ready for him by late Feb. So obviously I need to get started. I've done my searches, but have some more questions. I have to get the turbo mounted and the front end off the truck. Once I receieve the truck, I'll complete all the loose ends

I plan on keeping the AC, going A2A, using stock exh. manifolds w/spacer for turbo to clear AC.

***Radiator***

Should I go ahead and pick up the 94 Sonoma radiator? I read that it has lower outlets to clear a cobra elbow?

It has a tranny cooler. Is it sufficient, or should I go external?

On the Ty's, the oil cooler is that maze of tubing sitting in front of the radiator right? Does the 94 Sonoma radiator have an integrated oil cooler? Obviously I can't keep the stock one there if going A2A.

If external coolers would be noticeably better, should I just go with an aftermarket rad only?

***Wastegate***

Opinions, Tial or ITS?

Ideally, WG installed on X-over or on the custom DP?

Dump to open atmosphere or tie into DP? Have people run into sound issues with this? I assume open potentially means a few HP. I read about emissions.......do they frown on this?? I only do an idle test anyways, so it wouldn't be open at idle....... :wink:

***Exhaust***

Should I have him build in a exhaust dump off the DP? He suggested going with maybe a 3.5" and a removable catalytic converter with no dump. How would that be for daily driving?? I'd like to not necessarily set off car alarms any more than I do with my straight exhaust (with cat) if I don't have to, which is why I like the idea of the dump. But then again, with the removable cat (with v-clamps), I could easily remove it and essentially have a dump. So I'm not sure which route to take on this one.

***Intercooler***

Going A2A, am I really gonna run into problems having one in front of my radiator?? I do live in AZ, and right now with my 160* t-stat, it stays pretty cool, but would that seriously jeapordize my cooling during summer?? Or should I just scrap the whole idea and do an IC underneath like McCoy and RPM??

***Electric fans*** (sort of tied into the above question)

Would the Taurus fan be suitable for my setup?? I know it flows more than most out there, and I'm sure I'd need it. I obviously need to get rid of the motor-driven fan for the IC piping.


I think that's it for now. I appreciate anyone who read through all of this and even more for those who can provide me with any help. I don't know where I am going to find the time to do all of this....

:-?
 

Syclone#1992

SyTy.net Moderator
Well, what are your goals for the truck....open downpipe is loud. If I were you I would put the wastegate on the custom downpipe and tie it back in, instead of venting to the atmosphere. If vented to the atmosphere it will be quite loud.


Couple of other questions.....TC? Fuel? Injectors? Chip? Tranny? What have you done to all those to support this huge turbo ect..?
 

PPI Typhoon

DIY Madman
Syclone#1992 said:
Well, what are your goals for the truck....open downpipe is loud. If I were you I would put the wastegate on the custom downpipe and tie it back in, instead of venting to the atmosphere. If vented to the atmosphere it will be quite loud.


Couple of other questions.....TC? Fuel? Injectors? Chip? Tranny? What have you done to all those to support this huge turbo ect..?

I knew those questions would come up. I forgot to add this.

I am having all of this work done, then parking the truck until I save for the motor build. I just would like to get something started on the truck, so I'm going to disassemble much of the truck, tow it to my guy, have him do the work, tow it home, then let it sit until the motor build is financially possible. (having Duffee Motorsports build my motor).

For the motor build, I'm going forged rods/pistons, 422 cam, Vortec heads, stock block/crank. For the TC, I'm not sure what I should go with as it is a BB turbo, so feedback on that would be good too. I think Nolan had a 2800? Can't remember. Maybe he can chime in here. I also plan on having him do the initial tuning setup that he offers on the CanadianSyTy site. Then once that's done, I'll put the alky back on and start tuning it for that.

I do realize that I'm pushing it with that size of turbo, but I am not making this a track queen, just a very impressive street fighter for now. Once I can afford the thousands of dollars for an aluminum bowtie....that may change. :wink:

So this is just the beginning of my total build. I just happen to have the turbo and IC, so I'd like to get those mocked up, so that when I do get the motor back, I can just throw it in and be *reasonably* close to having it back on the road. I'd hate to have the motor built and not have all the goodies to bolt on to it. :tup:
 

TurboPhoon

New member
If i were you i would go with a external tranny cooler, i am sure your tranny will thank you for it. As far as the external waste gate i dont it is that bad to have it vented to the atmosphere this is what i am going to be doing. My buddy has the 38mm tial and it is vented, I personally dont minde the noise and if you dont like it you can always plum it back in or put a muffler like BigAl did. As far as emissions go if you took it to a place like Jiffy lube they wouldent even know what is was. Good luck with the build :rock:
 

Maxtor

New member
I'm not familiar with the 94 radiator, but would definitely go with an external cooler regardless of what you do. Put it somewhere it can get good airflow or use a decent fan to get the heat out. With a good external cooler you shouldn't need the radiator cooler.

I've never used an ITS gate, but my experiece with Tial has been very good. I have a HKS right now on the Stokes truck, and I think it is very poorly made. I wouldn't recommend HKS to anyone. I've used them open and plumbed back into the exhaust. The hissing can get annoying when left open, and you need to make sure it is not in the path of anything that it may melt.

Kind of mixed feelings about the dump. The Stokes truck does not have one, just regular ATR exhaust with no CAT and a muffler. Works fine. I would stick with a regular exhaust and removable CAT.

There isn't a great solution with the AtoA on our trucks in my opinion. For big HP, going below the radiator just doesn't give you enough room for the right size cooler and doesn't provide enough air flow. Putting it in front of the radiator solves this problem, but introduces the opportunity for overheating when driving the truck on the street. I would go with the McCoy unit which may be undersized slightly for you but won't give you cooling problems. If you go with the McCoy setup, you get the fans as part of the package.

Good luck.
 

DanenGraham

Big in the rear
***Radiator***

I have also hear about the lower outlets on the newer radiators, i have never seen it to be sure though. I have a 3" cobra elbow on with a stock radiator and its a tight fit.

Your going to want and external tranny cooler, and if you get and external you dont even need to run the lines back to the Radiator anyways so your elbow will fit even better. (arnt the tranny lines the only ones in the way?) Then Put a fan on it, and then put another fan on it.

Not sure about the oil cooler on the Ty. But i thought they only had an extra PS cooler not an acutal oil cooler as well? (am i wrong?)

***Wastegate***

I have only had one brand so far, ITS. I got the Turbo kit from RPM, I could never get the thing to work. I had it hooked up so it would only run base, and the thing would just keep on going. I have since sent that one back and gotten a new one. I havent put it on yet to test it out, But im sure it will work.

RPM's kit is mounted on the DP. It then returns back into the DP, I wouldnt want it vented as i have heard a few that just sound bad.

***Exhaust***

I would deffently put a dump in. I mean its more HP man, just do it. At the end of the DP have a dump put on the build you a full exhaust back, Cat, Muff, Ypipe, Duals. (thats what im doing) And electric dumps fit right on top of that.

***Intercooler***

Dont know crap about A/A.

***Electric fans***

Taurus fan
I would say this is your best bet, i havent seen any electric fan that you can order out of summit or Jegs that even come close to 5000cfm.



Well hope that helps a little, now remember just my .02
 

Jersey 91/93

NASTE Member
That maze of tubing in front of the radiator is the power steering cooler, not the oil cooler. The stock oil cooler, like the stock tranny cooler, is integrated into the stock radiator. The two ports for the oil cooler are on the back of the radiator on the driver's side.

Woo-hoo, only 1 1/2 months in and I actually get to contribute knowledge to someone else! Damn this is a great board to learn things on.
 

ed hess

race or get outta the way
the answer to your radiator blockage problem is quite simple.

i found that with a the ford taurus electric fan cooling issues due to fmic was a thing of the past.

fwiw we stopped using a t-stat while dealing with the cooling issues
and with the taurus fan set on hi (its 2 speed) the temps wouldnt go over 140 at idle.

so do the fmic and use a taurus fan and you should be fine.

prior to this fan i used a flexlite 60 fan. nite and day difference...

we are using just a restrictor in place of the thermostat.

ed
 

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Well, Ive seen this question asked a million times and noone ever answers but maybe this time it will be different. What year Taurus does the fan set up need to come off of and is there a particular motor it needs to have? Also, is there a reason you cant run it full time?

Mike
 

ed hess

race or get outta the way
typhooner0073 said:
Well, Ive seen this question asked a million times and noone ever answers but maybe this time it will be different. What year Taurus does the fan set up need to come off of and is there a particular motor it needs to have? Also, is there a reason you cant run it full time?

Mike

ya know i dont know what year...
ask bob romano what year or try a search around here or somethin.

while your at ask em when he gonna pickup my old rear.

and i do run this fan full time.

cant tell ya what temp you would get at low speed....

ed
 

Ian Turgeon

Cascading Inspiration
Re: Prepping truck for T76 and A2A install

***Radiator***
Well, what gets in the way is the trans cooler lines and the heater core line where they connect to the radiator. Depending on if you want to use them will dictate if you need to try a radiator that has better provisions for them. You need to to an external trans cooler, so in all reality I dont think you need to run through the radiator (at that point would only heat and maintain a consistant temp). So that clears up those lines, then the heater core outlet. unfortunately its a molded plastic piece that cant be removed from the radiator. This may or may not be a problem for your turbo and intake design. I say if it is, take care of it, but wait till you identified it really is a problem.

If your thinking about using independant aftermarket coolers for the oil and trans, you may want to just get an alum radiator because they are fairly cheap w/o the provisions for those.

***Wastegate***

Tial and ITS are fantastic in my experience. I have an ITS racegate that has worked flawlessly with both a manual pressure regulator and my big boy boost controller. (also experience with a mini gate and another race gate or two on other trucks )

As for dumping it: heres some theory and experience
Its not THAT loud. Yes it is noticable but come on, your on the gas hard, truck is going to voice its opinion a little anyway. Keeping the exit away from melty stuff is very important. I like RPM's kits for mounting the external cleanly. The theoretical best place to vent exhaust with a wastegate is before the turbine wheel, but after the point where all the exhaust ports are joined. Now, on the crossover, it is PLENTY effective, but not text-book ideal.

Venting exhaust can help with the exhaust pressure after the turbo which has cascading positive effects. It should help with spool up, should help reduce back pressure ( read free(er) flowing exhaust leaving the cylinders as its not having to push against the gasses dumped into the downpipe via a non-dumped gate ). It should also allow your gate to be as effective as it can be without any conflict from exhaust pressure generated by the engine. Of course these may in reality be marginal or negligable bennefits.

***Exhaust***

a v-banded cat in there would be quite nice, and easy to remove. Of course this means you'll want a strait pipe to put in its place, and that means buying a lot of vband pieces, which for some unknown reason arent very cheap.

***Intercooler***

I cant answer problems about having one infront of the rad, other then I have seen quite a few people have some. The McCoy and RPM kits are very similar, with exception of pipe routing and fan choices. But you loose out a little by having it under the bumper there (scoop is a requirement).

***Electric fans*** (sort of tied into the above question)

Think about power draw of the fan/fans if you have a stock alt. keep an eye on power as you may be forced to upgrade a little.
 

DanenGraham

Big in the rear
Your wanting the Electric fan out of the 3.0 DOHC Taurus, Newer years like 96-99 or something along the lines of that. Not the very newest body style but the last one.
 

PPI Typhoon

DIY Madman
Thanks everyone for the feedback.

I'll go ahead and do the WG on the DP, trying the open vent first, and changing if need be, definately go with the Taurus fan, get an aluminum rad and just go external coolers.

Also thanks for the heads up on the PS cooler. Question about that........ Could it just be moved to where the A2W heat exchanger is now?? Or is there other solutions people have come up with??

Thanks again everyone.
 

kwick6

Donating Member
I will be offering BeCool dual core radiators w/o coolers and the heater core lines moved so they don't interfere with the turbo.

My goal is to have a FMIC , dual core radiator and taurus electric fan setup.
 

Taylor_sy#2447

New member
:oops: sorry for goin off topic..... ppi ty did you by chance receive my e-mail about the 2 datamaster cables ???? just curious cause i havent gotten any kind of reply.....

and trying to redeem this post a bit.... :tup: sounds like an awsome set up i would personally just have the guy make a "bolt in" test pipe so when its time for inspection just pull the pipe and bolt the cat back up..... go pass inspection.... and switch back out.... thats what im gonna do anyway but ya good luck sounds like you have somethin nice in the works :tup:
 

PPI Typhoon

DIY Madman
Taylor_sy#2447 said:
:oops: sorry for goin off topic..... ppi ty did you by chance receive my e-mail about the 2 datamaster cables ???? just curious cause i havent gotten any kind of reply.....

and trying to redeem this post a bit.... :tup: sounds like an awsome set up i would personally just have the guy make a "bolt in" test pipe so when its time for inspection just pull the pipe and bolt the cat back up..... go pass inspection.... and switch back out.... thats what im gonna do anyway but ya good luck sounds like you have somethin nice in the works :tup:

I apologize for the no response. Things have been really crazy lately. I thought I had responded to everyone, but I guess not. :-?

Anyhow, the cables are currently on hold. Due to reecnt circumstances, I have lost my area to assemble these. This is temporary and I'm trying to work something else out, but for now, they are on hold. I'm sorry for any inconvenience.
 

PPI Typhoon

DIY Madman
So does anyone have a link to an aluminum radiator only that works with our trucks??

Also, for the PS cooler, I've read about some people just bypassing it. Is that necessary? Or should I get one of those "dual coolers" for engine and PS oil?

My plan is to just put a cooler where the CCHE is right now, and then one in the back for the tranny with a fan on it.

Sound like I'm on the right track??

Thanks,
 
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