Oil leakage...

UniqueTyph

New member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter
Ok so I guess I am still new to the SyTy set up. I bought a Ty last year and have been feveroushly working on getting it back up and running. After copious amounts of body work and welding in new metal and redoing the entire front end and suspension I have started driving it occasionally.

I have noticed an oil leak and ckeck the oil every couple trips and add some if needed. Yesterday after getting home I noticed a small circle maybe 2 inches in diameter and a trail of drips heading from up the road, it was running in the driveway for maybe 2 minutes... I have cleaned up and replaced most gaskets up top without getting deep into the engine. Down below is all original..... I was thinking oil pan and gasket as well as the remote oil lines... Reading the few threads I could find I saw some had mentioned the filter on the block... I did this on my old blazer that had the 4.3L and some of the threads were talking about tapered adapters and dealing with the turbo oil lines?

I will replace the oil coolant lines if I need to because I am do not want to get too deep into this right now... just looking to stop the oil issue for a year or two until I can get funds for a more complete engine overhaul...

Can I get away with a filter or do I need something more... I could not figure out this thread with you guys talking about valves in the block or filter or what have you...
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syclone1445

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

If the leak is coming from the filter relocation at the block, you can fix that yourself for about $6 (dorman 82560 gasket/o-ring kit) and 1-3 hours of elbow grease depending on how easily the old gasket comes off. mine was a P.I.T.A.
 

UniqueTyph

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

Well since the truck has 120k on it and I have experienced leaky lines in the past I am thinking it's prob more than a little gasket. It is literally so grimy up on the underside I really dont think I could really verify the point without spending what could be hours of futile effort...

I have a lift at my parents and was hoping to tackle this around turkey day... If I have to do lines and a pan with new gaskets it will coat a couple hundred but at least everything will be new and clean... If I can get away with a filter swap in the shorter interim then that would save me time now...
 

syclone1445

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

I just replaced the gasket yesterday on my sy. it seemed to have fixed the leak. my underside was grimmy as well and i believe that was from the oil dripping from the block oil relocation onto the propshaft and spraying the underside of my sy. you can always pressure wash under your ty and add uv dye in your oil, the kits are not that expensive. that might help find the source of the leak. good luck
 

ty166

Donating Member
Re: Oil leakage...

i would replace the gasket and o-rings for the filter relocation mount and eliminate that, as mentioned its a easy job and inexspensive also. it was a sorce of leaks on more than a couple s-10 with major oil leaks for me in the past. then if you still have leaks replace the lines, not the easiest job to remove those.
 

UniqueTyph

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

My dad does have a decent pressure washer, never thought of doing it that way. How bad a leak did you have before? I have never ha a leak like this...
 

UniqueTyph

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

Anyone do the filter directly on the block? Cold months are ahead so cooling won't be an issue. That could also be a quick fix till I replace the complete line setup in the spring...
 

s10blaza

BOOSTED
Re: Oil leakage...

Anyone do the filter directly on the block? Cold months are ahead so cooling won't be an issue. That could also be a quick fix till I replace the complete line setup in the spring...

I went with a spin-on filter, no problems whatsoever. If anything I just have to do my oil changes when the truck is cold, it's a little tighter.
 

ty166

Donating Member
Re: Oil leakage...

same amount of work to replace the gasket or switch to a block mounted filter , actually more work as you will want to remove the lines you are no longer using with the block mounted filter.
 

syclone1445

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

If you go with the spin on you have to remember the oil cools the turbo. That's why there is an oil cooler, don't know if I would risk it. But I don't know enough about what temperatures are involved/tolerated in either method to point you In the right direction.
 

UniqueTyph

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

I have an electric fan and my temps stay considerably lower than normal. I'm aware that there is considerably more technicalities to the SyTy compared to the regular S10 series which I grew up working on. Removing the lines is easy with a hacksaw so no biggie there I was just trying to get a feeler on what you experienced SyTy peeps have done and had luck with.

For the couple that mentioned the gaskets for the remote line, can you get those at Autozone or CAP or the like? I think since I will be up under there it can't be too difficult to try the gasket first then if no luck cut em out and do the spin on.

For those with the spin on, what filter you use?

The pan looks ok but this Ty sat for I am thinking 8 years in a garage with minimal if any attention so I may have to investigate that gasket also. Im just lookin at getting through the winter then tackle a good chunk of the underside of the engine when it's nicer. Any difference on the SyTy oil pump and pick up Vs a reg 4.3?
 

MoJo

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

I have an electric fan and my temps stay considerably lower than normal. I'm aware that there is considerably more technicalities to the SyTy compared to the regular S10 series which I grew up working on. Removing the lines is easy with a hacksaw so no biggie there I was just trying to get a feeler on what you experienced SyTy peeps have done and had luck with.

For the couple that mentioned the gaskets for the remote line, can you get those at Autozone or CAP or the like? I think since I will be up under there it can't be too difficult to try the gasket first then if no luck cut em out and do the spin on.

For those with the spin on, what filter you use?

The pan looks ok but this Ty sat for I am thinking 8 years in a garage with minimal if any attention so I may have to investigate that gasket also. Im just lookin at getting through the winter then tackle a good chunk of the underside of the engine when it's nicer. Any difference on the SyTy oil pump and pick up Vs a reg 4.3?

The 4.3L V6 engines and SB Chevy V8 engines use the same oil pump through 1991 which has a 5/8" inlet and pick up screen assembly. . The 1992 and later 4.3L V6 and V8 engines used the same oil pump but with a 3/4" inlet and pick up assembly. Unlike the Chevrolet SB V8 engines, the earlier 4.3L V6 engines had front main bearing failures due to lack of oil volume at higher RPM and increasing the oil pump inlet size was a cheap attempt to fix the problem. .The real problem is that Chevy 4.3L V6 engines do not have priority main bearing oiling and the lifters on the drivers side of the engine reduce the oil volume to the front main bearings at high RPM. One should always upgrade to the 1992 and later oil pump with a 3/4" inlet and the appropriate 3/4" pick up screen assembly or install a Melling Select 10552 oil pump that has 10% more output volume. .

I believe if you renew the oil filter adapter gaskets and seals you will eliminate the primary source of oil leaks on these engines. Dorman 82560 is a good gasket kit. for the 1985-2003 Chevrolet 4.3L V6 oil filter adapter. The kit has has four O-rings for the oil line connections, a cardboard gasket and o-ring seal for the adapter to block. Always use a WIX 51036 oil filter. DO NOT use a AC Delco PF52 oil filter because they are not made by GM anymore.
 
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syclone1445

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

I gave you the part manufacturer and # in my first post. I got It at kragen but they have it at a lot of the parts stores
 

UniqueTyph

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

Ok so taking the advise some of you sent my way about the oil line adapter leakage issue I went to advance auto and got the dorman gasket kit. Took off my skid plates (they fit quite well even off a 98 ZR2) anyways thinking the gaskets would be a relatively easy job I took out the bolts only to realize there is almost no room up there by the block and oil line adapter...

Not being able to finish the job I put the adapter back on and started the truck to see a stream of oil coming out. For those of you that have done this, is there a trick to doing it? I think on my S10 when I encountered te same problem I said F-this and did the screw on filter instead. Looking at the situation I feel I may have to remove the front differential? any insight would be awesome. I am going to have to have my dad come with the trailer and drag me to his place where he has a lift to finish this unless there is something stupid I am missing or have not thought of.
 

syclone1445

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

I used a square razor blade and took my time scraping it off of the block. I was able to get the adapter out of the way using applied force torward the wheel. That cleared up just enough room. After the gasket was off I used a kitchen scouring pad & degreaser for the finish work.
 

UniqueTyph

New member
Re: Oil leakage...

So quadrajet yiu berated me a bit but never gave actual methods to make me successful. I have done enough gaskets to know scraping with a razor is what you have to do. My issue was more of how to clear a path to get a razor up in there... I was def thinking I had to remove something. Thought the front prop shaft being removed might make it easier but since the vehicle is all wheel drive, the drive shafts dont turn with wheels touching the ground, hence my thought of needing a lift. So Sy1445, no big removals? I am assumin by pusing it towards the wheel you mean tongue drivers side?

. Never thought the front diff removal was that bad, my S10 ate several of them so i am pretty familiar wiith the process. Not sure why it went through them, I was never mean to it. May have had something to do with the on/off that it had to deal with unlike the always on SyTy? I am hoping the internals for the SyTy front diff are stronger than the reg S10...
 
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