O-Meter with LC-1 Question

[akryder86]

I just bought the O-meter/LC-1 combo from Moates and I want to use this just for tuning my truck then take it out and replace it with the stock nbo2. I've searched the forums forwards and backwards and couldn't find anything on this. My question is the wiring of it. I understand and want to hook up the O-meter but I also want to hook it up to my ecu so I can see what my AFR is in tunerpro. I have everything necessary to run $59 and want to get to tuning my truck.

So far these are the two wires that I'm left with: the yellow analog 1 wire and the black calibration wire. The directions for the LC-1 say to wire the yellow analog wire into the ecu and program that wire to simulate the 0-1v nbo2 for the truck. Is this correct? TIA.

Montana

 

[SBNova]

Re: O-Meter with LC-1 Question

As far as Iknow, the ECU (factory SyTy) will not output your wideband or narrowband data via any wires, only in the ALDL datastream.

It sound like you need to connect the O-meter to the wideband's output, then connect the wideband's simulated narrowband output into the SyTy ECU's O2 sensor input. You'll need the wideband functioning to have data on the O-meter.

 

[akryder86]

Re: O-Meter with LC-1 Question

Correct, I understand that I need to hook up the o-meter to the lc-1 to have the wb output but where is the input on the syty ecu? Can I go into the stock nbo2 sensor harness or do I need to wire it into the ecu o2 input? And if I decided not to put it into the ecu does the truck need the nbo2 input to run if I'm emulating in which open or closed loop?

 

[turbodig]

Re: O-Meter with LC-1 Question

Correct, I understand that I need to hook up the o-meter to the lc-1 to have the wb output but where is the input on the syty ecu? Can I go into the stock nbo2 sensor harness or do I need to wire it into the ecu o2 input? And if I decided not to put it into the ecu does the truck need the nbo2 input to run if I'm emulating in which open or closed loop?

Code59 wants the 0-5v input on F14. See the wiring/hookup instructions over there.
o-meter can T off this same line.

Non-patched chip will need the stock o2 in there, which means you need 2 o2 bungs, or you need to emulate the narrowband with the LC1. For some, this works ok, others not as much.

 

[akryder86]

Re: O-Meter with LC-1 Question

Code59 wants the 0-5v input on F14. See the wiring/hookup instructions over there.
o-meter can T off this same line.

Non-patched chip will need the stock o2 in there, which means you need 2 o2 bungs, or you need to emulate the narrowband with the LC1. For some, this works ok, others not as much.

Ok, I want to tune the truck with $59 and I now understand how to wire in the wbo2 but I'm still confused on one thing. Once I get the tune were I want the truck running is the wbo2 required or is there a way to make it so I can use the $59 tune with the stock nbo2. The reason I ask is my truck is almost a daily driver and from what I've read and understand the LC-1 is more of a remove-stock-o2-replace-with-LC-1-then-remove-after-tuning-session" as opposed to a leave in afr controller like the PLX Devices. My reasoning for this is the fact that the instructions say it needs calibrated almost before every startup and if it is left in the engine needs to sit for at least 6 hors before the next startup and that won't work when I'm just running errands around town.

I think I made a mistake in buying the LC-1 but am not sure. Are my assumptions correct about the LC-1 and if so do I need to sell it and get a different controller? If so is the AEM EUGO a leave in unit and a suitable replacement or is the PLX Devices M-300 a better unit? TIA

Montana

 

[turbodig]

Re: O-Meter with LC-1 Question

Ok, I want to tune the truck with $59 and I now understand how to wire in the wbo2 but I'm still confused on one thing. Once I get the tune were I want the truck running is the wbo2 required or is there a way to make it so I can use the $59 tune with the stock nbo2. The reason I ask is my truck is almost a daily driver and from what I've read and understand the LC-1 is more of a remove-stock-o2-replace-with-LC-1-then-remove-after-tuning-session" as opposed to a leave in afr controller like the PLX Devices. My reasoning for this is the fact that the instructions say it needs calibrated almost before every startup and if it is left in the engine needs to sit for at least 6 hors before the next startup and that won't work when I'm just running errands around town.

I think I made a mistake in buying the LC-1 but am not sure. Are my assumptions correct about the LC-1 and if so do I need to sell it and get a different controller? If so is the AEM EUGO a leave in unit and a suitable replacement or is the PLX Devices M-300 a better unit? TIA

Montana

You can leave an LC-1 in there too. It's a good idea to re-calibrate every once-in a while, but the frequency they spec is just nuts. Not practical for the average user.

Generally, you can just hit the calibrate button in the morning when you start it for the first time. Once or twice a week should be plenty.

You can just use the NB o2 with $59 as well... no problems there.

 

[akryder86]

Re: O-Meter with LC-1 Question

You can leave an LC-1 in there too. It's a good idea to re-calibrate every once-in a while, but the frequency they spec is just nuts. Not practical for the average user.

Generally, you can just hit the calibrate button in the morning when you start it for the first time. Once or twice a week should be plenty.

You can just use the NB o2 with $59 as well... no problems there.

Ok cool. Yeah I was worried as you can tell about their calibration specs. How would I run $59 with a nbo2 or should I post this question in the $59 forum? I searched long and hard for the answer on running a nbo2 in $59 but didn't find anything.

 

[JSM]

Re: O-Meter with LC-1 Question

If you want to run NB, removing WB a few on/off settings in tunerpro. Don't have it in front of me right now but should be fairly obvious. Reads something like (use WB for CL), you will want that off.

Also in case you didn't know, your O-Meter can be hooked up to a code59 chip and configured as a knock detector reading out actual knock retard. I can't remember if we released that bin yet or not and the drawings though but it works, Paul has the exact setup up and running.

 

[turbodig]

Re: O-Meter with LC-1 Question

If you want to run NB, removing WB a few on/off settings in tunerpro. Don't have it in front of me right now but should be fairly obvious. Reads something like (use WB for CL), you will want that off.

Also in case you didn't know, your O-Meter can be hooked up to a code59 chip and configured as a knock detector reading out actual knock retard. I can't remember if we released that bin yet or not and the drawings though but it works, Paul has the exact setup up and running.

Not released yet, Hombre.

 

[JSM]

Re: O-Meter with LC-1 Question

OOPS, forget what I just said.

 

[akryder86]

Re: O-Meter with LC-1 Question

If you want to run NB, removing WB a few on/off settings in tunerpro. Don't have it in front of me right now but should be fairly obvious. Reads something like (use WB for CL), you will want that off.

Also in case you didn't know, your O-Meter can be hooked up to a code59 chip and configured as a knock detector reading out actual knock retard. I can't remember if we released that bin yet or not and the drawings though but it works, Paul has the exact setup up and running.

I've been following that thread and am probably going to do that with it once the bin and install instructions are released. Thanks for the help. I used $59 and autotuner a couple weeks ago and got it to idle like a new truck but that is as far as I got and wanted to go without a wbo2.

We had our first "snow" last night and timbo and myself want to get the truck running correctly before the snow actually stays and sticks. Once that happens don't know how long it'll be before we can get the truck out for more runs as it has BFG KDWS all-seasons on stock rims. The race against the clock has begun. But, the plus side to tuning it now for the winter is IAT's are in the 70*-85* range.