New owner - need advice

rxsyclone

New member
Hello, I just purchased an Syclone and did quite a bit of research before registering and posting on here. This is what I've gathered, please correct what I got wrong or feel free to add to it.

Syclones are very fast, especially from a launch. The 280 horsepower is quite underrated. They have no known major reliability issues. They idle rough (because of vibration in the 4.3). You cannpt haul more than 500lbs in the back. Towing trailers and cars is not recommended. It hadles and stops decent for a truck. It is hard to change the spark plugs.

I would like to do a major tune-up when I get the truck in a few days, and this is what I would try to do, not knowing much about the vehicle:

Oil & filter change (can and should I use synthetic?)
Plugs change (use stock? What is a good performance plug?)
Air-filter (most likely go with a drop-in k&n)
Is there a PCV valve?
Tires aligned and balanced
try to swap both differential fluids to synthetic
fuel filter ( changable? where is it?)
drain fuel tank (doable?)
flush tranny (dealership) refill with synthetic
check belts (serpentine? is there a tensioner?)
inspect exhaust (I would like to replace with an extremely light weight unit that is free flow but does not cause overboosting)
Replace plug wires with high performance (normally use Magnecor, what brand is recommended, Taylor?)
I do not plan on using injector cleaner or any fuel adiitive.
I would also consider an aftermarket chip to improve overall performance ang get the IC pump going but I do not want anything too serious that would affect reliability.
I also heard about replacing the IC to turbo pipe with radiator hose???
I would like to do any and every trick that eliminates/improves factory inefficiencies and improves reliability.

Thank you for reading this and I appreciate your valuable advice in advance. If none of this makes any sense I am approaching this as an RX7 owner, I have owned roughly 15 of them and currently drive two 11 second 93-95 Mazda RX7s. I am sorry but I don't know the first thing about these trucks except that I wanted one and that I will take excellent care of it. I just found out that it probably won't be able to tow my 2700 lb Mazdas, and that I better hope it doesn't have rust on the bottom when it gets here from Michigan. Sheesh...wish me luck and help me learn how to make it run healthy please.
 
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SYO237

SyTy Registry
Re: New owner - need advice

rxsyclone said:
The 280 horsepower is quite underrated.

Correct, the actual power is more around 300, but for sales sack and due to the 285hp rating of the 700R4, they were said to have 280.

rxsyclone said:
They have no known major reliability issues.

You sure you bought a Sy? Short list of major problem points are:

1. Transmission
2. Propshaft
3. Ignition


rxsyclone said:
They idle rough (because of vibration in the 4.3).

More in depth, because our 4.3s dont have balance shafts, plus if you have a low # production truck, you have the chip that leaves the truck to idle like junk... trucks after around #1200 were changed to a champaign chip to help idle.


rxsyclone said:
You cannpt haul more than 500lbs in the back. Towing trailers and cars is not recommended. It hadles and stops decent for a truck.

Yep...and it was the first truck to utilize a 4 wheel ABS system.


rxsyclone said:
It is hard to change the spark plugs.

Nah... its easy. If you have small hands, you can do it all from the top. But the other 2 most used methods:

1. Jack the truck up where you can access the fender well flaps and work through those... its a bit tight, but very much doable.

2. Jack the truck up and remove the wheels and fender well...its not very hard, about 12 bolts. Then you have all the access in th world... this is my prefered method due to I can check other things on the truck at the same time.


rxsyclone said:
Oil & filter change (can and should I use synthetic?)

Synthetic ALWAYs. I prefer Mobil 1 and AC Delco filter. You'll get many opinions on this...just use synthetic oil regardless.

rxsyclone said:
Plugs change (use stock? What is a good performance plug?)

Plugs should be gapped between .030 and .035

AC Delco (Available at PepBoys)
CR42TS (only)

NGK (Available at NAPA, Pepboys, Autozone, ect)
(Stock replacement)
UR5 - V-Power - Stock # 2771
UR5GP - G-Power Platinum - Stock # 3547
UR5IX - Iridium IX - Stock # 7177

(Colder plug than stock)
UR6 - V-Power - Stock # 7773
UR6GP - G-Power Platinum - Stock # 7966
UR6IX - Iridium IX - Stock # 7348



rxsyclone said:
Air-filter (most likely go with a drop-in k&n)

K&N works.


rxsyclone said:
Is there a PCV valve?

2 of them. They are located under the IC resovior on the passenger side valve cover. One is in the front, one in the back... and the part number I cant remember...im sure someone else will though



rxsyclone said:
try to swap both differential fluids to synthetic

I dont think this is a wise decision... especially in the xfer case. Synthetic in the trans or xfer case causes excessive heat and slippage causing you to burn them up quickly.

The front and rear diffs you will get everyones opinion.





rxsyclone said:
fuel filter ( changable? where is it?)

Changable...and its located on the driver side, in the frame, right about where you fuel door is at.


rxsyclone said:
drain fuel tank (doable?)

Unless the trucks been sitting for years without moving or being started...dont see why you would bother.



rxsyclone said:
flush tranny (dealership) refill with synthetic


DEALERSHIPS ARE BAD. DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC UNLESS YOU HAVE MONEY FOR A REBUILD!!!!!


rxsyclone said:
check belts (serpentine? is there a tensioner?)

yes, its a serp...and yes the tensioner is the big round thing right in front of the engine. If its twitching back and forth or easily moved around and vibrating, change it.



rxsyclone said:
inspect exhaust (I would like to replace with an extremely light weight unit that is free flow but does not cause overboosting)

I dont have exhaust, so im passing this one
icon_smile.gif



rxsyclone said:
Replace plug wires with high performance (normally use Magnecor, what brand is recommended, Taylor?)

Lots of opinions on this, but alot use Taylor Spiro Pros. They are available at a good price from Tucker Auto Parts, Micheal Hood. Visit his forum in the vendors marketplace.




rxsyclone said:
I would also consider an aftermarket chip to improve overall performance ang get the IC pump going but I do not want anything too serious that would affect reliability.


There are lots here who do custom chips. Just ask around... and for the IC pump, I like to recommend a Jabsco...fits where the stock does, flows twice as much and you can get it from www.autoperformanceengineering.com

Id consider getting a walbro 255 fuel pump from there as well... its a good upgrade since fueling is very important for these trucks.




rxsyclone said:
I also heard about replacing the IC to turbo pipe with radiator hose???

Yep, just find a nice hose to fit with a nice gentle curve.... or you can find people who do the stainless steel pipe with 2 silicon fittings on each end... both work great.


rxsyclone said:
I would like to do any and every trick that eliminates/improves factory inefficiencies and improves reliability.

Heres some stuff to do as well:


- Replacing the metal intercooler lines and rerouting with 3/4" hose
- Hotwiring the intercooler pump to run continuously while the key is in the "ON" position.
- Bellmouthing the intercooler resovior
- Port match and polish exhaust side of turbo where it bolts up to the manifold
- Port match and polish exhaust manifold where it bolts up to the turbo
- Port match and polish upper intake to match lower intake
- Bellmouth compressor side of turbo inlet
- Removing the small round plastic grommet from the radiator support directly in front of the stock air box. This will give an extra quarter sized hole that flows air into the airbox. Not a huge gain in efficiency, but some non the less when you look at how air has to travel to get into the airbox.



HTH, and heres some more reading:

http://syty.org/faq.html
 

Jimmy

Banned
Re: New owner - need advice

Just wanted to point out that Autolite 23's also work great for plugs.
 

NecroWolf

lost marbles member
Re: New owner - need advice

spark plug wires -- stay away from accell. burnt up a set in two months here.
exhaust -- as long as you don't ditch your cat or if you replace your cat with a high flow overboost shouldn't be an issue. i got the 3" atr exhaust and i likes well enough
oil - any of your high end sythetics will work. calls for mobil one, i prefer royal puple.
it's better to do your own work where you can otherwise you might have some serious issues come up.

as far as reliablity just don't rip it around or boost lauch it often and it should be okay. i drive my ty everyday without any real issues

on the air filter mine has a k&n cone on it. someone before me cut the plastic air intake down so it would fit one and sit right behind the battery. one of these days i'm gonna relocate my battery so it's more of an efficient setup
 

rxsyclone

New member
Re: New owner - need advice

Thank you all for the info. I hope that by treating the truck very well it will prove reliable despite racing and driving hard. I will most likely stay away from turbo and manifold porting in the beginning but intake, exhaust and spark plug wire upgrades are likely, as well as a carefully chosen computer chip. The first thing I will do is a very extensive tune-up. Thanks Adam for the info regarding that.
 

SYO237

SyTy Registry
Re: New owner - need advice

No prob...welcome to the community :tup:


Theres lots to read on the trucks and familiarize yourself with the common knowledge. It'll all come with time
 

rxsyclone

New member
Re: New owner - need advice

Well, after more research my initial tune-up list is looking like this:

ENGINE
drop-in K&N filter in stock box
10w30 royal purple synthetic
oil filter - AC Delco
PCV valves (2)
computer chip - "Ultimate Chip" by Todd Austinson and Brian Green
check belt tensioner
FUEL
Fuel Pump - aftermarket
Fuel filter - stock
SPARK
cap and rotor - Conrad
spark plug wires - Taylor Spiro Pros from Tucker Auto Parts, Micheal Hood
spark plugs - AC Delco CR42TS
DRIVELINE
driveshaft loops - Phil Chivers
Dextron III with LubeGard in the tranny and transfer case (no synthetic?),change filter
COOLING
intercooler pump (hotwired too) -Jabsco from www.autoperformanceengineering.com
Larger CAC scoop
Replacing the metal intercooler lines and rerouting with 3/4" hose
Removing the small round plastic grommet from the radiator support
directly in front of the stock air box.
This will give an extra quarter sized hole that flows air into the
airbox. Not a huge gain in efficiency, but some non the less when
you look at how air has to travel to get into the airbox.
BRAKES
stainless steel braided brake lines - ?
brake fluid flush
inspect pads and shoes
OTHER
fire extinguisher
 
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blk00z28

Forced to by choice
Re: New owner - need advice

"I", would relocate the battery. And just go with a cold air kit and be done with that stuff altogether with.
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: New owner - need advice

rxsyclone said:
Well, after more research my initial tune-up list is looking like this:

ENGINE
drop-in K&N filter in stock box
10w30 royal purple synthetic
oil filter - AC Delco
PCV valves (2)
computer chip - "Ultimate Chip" by Todd Austinson and Brian Green
check belt tensioner
FUEL
Fuel Pump - aftermarket
Fuel filter - stock
SPARK
cap and rotor - Conrad
spark plug wires - Taylor Spiro Pros from Tucker Auto Parts, Micheal Hood
spark plugs - AC Delco CR42TS
DRIVELINE
driveshaft loops - Phil Chivers
Dextron III with LubeGard in the tranny and transfer case (no synthetic?),change filter
COOLING
intercooler pump (hotwired too) -Jabsco from www.autoperformanceengineering.com
Larger CAC scoop
Replacing the metal intercooler lines and rerouting with 3/4" hose
Removing the small round plastic grommet from the radiator support
directly in front of the stock air box.
This will give an extra quarter sized hole that flows air into the
airbox. Not a huge gain in efficiency, but some non the less when
you look at how air has to travel to get into the airbox.
BRAKES
stainless steel braided brake lines - ?
brake fluid flush
inspect pads and shoes
OTHER
fire extinguisher

That is a good list. With your mileage you can probably get away without replacing vacuum lines for a little while unless someone have tampered with them, but you might just want to do it while your in their. I would add datamster or atleast have someone look at your truck with a scan tool. I wouldn't go crazy relocationing the battery and replacing the crossover tube, but with higher mileage, the crossovers become brittle and can ruin the turbo, if the turbo ingests a piece of plastic.

If you do plan on doing boosted launchs (they are addicting), you will eventually need motor mounts, new propshaft, and a transmission cooler (deep tranny pan would help as well).
 

rxsyclone

New member
Re: New owner - need advice

Once again thank you all very much for the needed advice. The truck is still on it's way, meanwhile I worked my first day as a GM tech. We only work on GMC trucks, and an occasional Pontiac or Buick.
No Chevys or Caddys, that's the dealer across the street. So I will most likely have access to scan and special tools. I have a LOT to learn but I just started, I am very excited and I will keep this job for a long time. It should help a lot with familiarizing myself with my new truck and maintaining / repairing / upgrading it through the years. I hope it will serve well as a reliable work horse in a stable full of high power rotaries, I will take very good care of it. But yes I plan on hard boost launches.......that's the best part about these trucks
 

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Re: New owner - need advice

if you plan on very many hard boost launches then get a new propshaft quickly. (gilbert).
 

Deanzsyclone

New member
Re: New owner - need advice

Has the truck been stored for a long time? I had mine stored for about 4 years and what a headach/nightmare the gas tank and lines became.
 

93ty475

Donating Member
Re: New owner - need advice

deanzsyclone said:
Has the truck been stored for a long time? I had mine stored for about 4 years and what a headach/nightmare the gas tank and lines became.

did you end up cleaning or replacing your lines? my truck sat outside under a carport for as many as 8 yrs. and it still ran pretty well for me when I brought it home and fired it up....Then I replaced everything having to do with the stock metal fuel lines and system while I had the cab off....also the original owners had installed a plastic fuel cell to mine but retained the stock metal lines from behind the cab and forward....I now have larger diameter, softer lines installed....no regrets as of yet.....
 

Deanzsyclone

New member
Re: New owner - need advice

93ty475 said:
did you end up cleaning or replacing your lines? my truck sat outside under a carport for as many as 8 yrs. and it still ran pretty well for me when I brought it home and fired it up....Then I replaced everything having to do with the stock metal fuel lines and system while I had the cab off....also the original owners had installed a plastic fuel cell to mine but retained the stock metal lines from behind the cab and forward....I now have larger diameter, softer lines installed....no regrets as of yet.....

The rubber portion of the lines got eatin away and cloged the fuel rail and injectors, and the inside of the tank did not fair well but it's ALL replaced now.
 

JayLo

Sir Boost-a-Lot
Re: New owner - need advice

Welcome to the forum.

One thing I might add is getting the Datamaster cable and software so you can diagnose any problems you may encounter and tune your truck using your laptop. It's a pretty neat program that displays realtime and datalogs all the outputs from the ECU diagnostic port. I used it to determine that my 47,000 mile Sy had a bum fuel pump (wouldn't keep fuel pressure up above 5psi).

As I saw on your list, if you plan on running quicker than stock, go with a Racetronix fuel pump kit. It includes a Walbro 255, all needed wiring and requires no cutting of any stock wiring (you might need to pickup a new fuel tank locking ring). The only hard part is removing the truck bed which isn't too tough if you have a friend with some muscles help you.
________
LIVE SEX
 
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Spinall4

New member
Re: New owner - need advice

Here are a few insights I've seen coming over from the "turbo import" community.

The no synthetic in a/t's seems to be the truth, as I've seen too many a/t's blown up due to mobil 1 (we spent 3 ****ing days working on a buddys GSX, shift kit, filter, flush, cleaned the VB spotless. worked fine before we started, died about 2 months after the switch to mobile 1).

people on here may bitch about the price of parts from the stealer ship, but its nothing compared to what I was paying for parts from Mitsubishi. I picked up a new igniton coil beacuse they were so cheap.

I think that if you've been keeping 2 FD3S's running fine, a Typhoon will present no problems. I think that some people just don't understand that if its fast, then its going to be high maintence no matter who makes it.
 

JSM

Active member
Re: New owner - need advice

Spinall4 said:
The no synthetic in a/t's seems to be the truth, as I've seen too many a/t's blown up due to mobil 1

I just talked to Robert in sweden last week about this. His 4l80e's he was blowing up was due to synthetics. He moved back to dextron and tranny is fine.
 

Spinall4

New member
Re: New owner - need advice

JS Manufacturing said:
I just talked to Robert in sweden last week about this. His 4l80e's he was blowing up was due to synthetics. He moved back to dextron and tranny is fine.

I've had 1 trans builder tell me that is not the sythetic blowing up the these things, its the fact that all of them have been on their last legs, and just the switch to fresh fluid is what pushes them over the edge. I've been an all synthetic person, mobile 1 in the motor, mobile 1 in the trans, mobile one in the xfer case, and mobile 1 in the rear end when I had my last Talon. With as many blown trannies as I"ve seen due to synthetic, I think It may be wise just stick with regular and change it alot like some on this board do. I know I may just be being crazy, but I would be on the verge of sending mobile 1 a mail bomb if their oil blew up a fresh built 4L80e.
 
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