laptop engine tuning . where to start

[canuck]

i own a buick and theres a program u run to play with engine parameters.

is there a tell all sticky on the avenues that can be travelled, concerning how to approach and what can be done. or a link.
thx dave

 

[willyson]

Re: laptop engine tuning . where to start

here is a gist of what youre looking for:

tunerpro rt and files can be downloaded at nwstp.com
obd1 cable aka datamaster cable - check vendors
flash n burn g1 chip or ostrich moates.net

datamaster is used to monitor data, not actually tune. this is where tunerpro rt comes in

 

[willyson]

Re: laptop engine tuning . where to start

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=39270&highlight=ostrich+tune+wideband

heres a place to start with more info

 

[Flyin Ryan]

Re: laptop engine tuning . where to start

Check under the "Chipping, Emissions, Tuning" section on this site and you'll find a few stickys but also do a search for code59 or visit www.code59.org

My suggestion is

• Laptop (you already have)
• Tunerpro RT (gives you bin editing and data logggin in 1)
  • www.tunerpro.net
  • $35 to register RT version, free to try.
    • www.nwstp.com on the front page left side is current definition files.
    • FREE
• Ostrich (real time emulator, www.moates.net)
  
  • http://www.moates.net/ostrich-real-time-ecm-emulator-backordered-til-712-p-57.html
  • $175
• G1 adaptor (www.moates.net lets you plug in emulator)
  
  • http://www.moates.net/g1-memory-adapter-tpi-etc-p-32.html
  • $35
• ALDL cable (moates sells a USB version, others seem to work fine also)
  
  • http://www.moates.net/aldu1-usbtoaldl-converter-p-49.html
  • $50
    • Moates USB version, also requires OBD1 cable
    • http://www.moates.net/cabl1-obd1style-aldl-connector-p-50.html
    • $30
  • PPI Typhoon sells a nice 9 pin cable for serial ports. I personally have had good luck with his also.
• wideband o2 (optional but HIGHLY recomended. You will be amazed how far off the stock o2 can send you compared to a wideband. LC1 is cheapest i think from innovate but several suppliers out there.)
  
  • http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
  • $199
    • I use this sensor in my portable ecm tuning setup. Works well but can require frequent calibration (which is hitting a cal button while o2 is in clean air, 10 seconds or work if you time it right.)
  • The new code we are working on will support also AEM, FJO, Techedge, PLX, Zeitronix, and DIY-WB so any of those are good. They typically all use 1 of 2 sensors.

www.nwstp.com has the definition files for tunerpro you need and we try to keep them updated as bugs/errors are found.


I suggest new people play with the closed throttle VE table. Put the chip in open loop and play with adjusting those #'s to get the idle AFR where you want it. Save your old chip so you can always go back. You can't do much damage aside from fowl plugs in the closed throttle table so don't fear anything. Get it to idle well in park, figure out how VE adjustments affect AFR's, etc. Then put it in D, sitting there with brake and get that part of table fixed. Go back to Park (it will change) find the happy medium. Remeber you can't do much damage in closed throttle so try things. Get a good feel for what is going on.

Once you feel good there, drive at say 35mph steady see what cells are being accessed and what AFR you have. Make adjustment. Then do 45, 25, 55, etc. Get the main VE table so that AFR is where you want cruising steady state. Get that worked out and you will be amazed at how much the other stuff will fall into place. (stumbles, bogs, spool, etc.)

Everybody wants to tune boost first which is WRONG. The way the stock chip calculates fuel under boost forces you to have the drivability stuff first. Concentrate on drivability first.

When I do a custom tune for someone I spend 95% of my time doing drivability. Fuel under boost takes about 3 runs. Drivability can take a couple hours or more.