...knock...knock!
- Thread starter qbnkiller
- Start date
REVEREND HARMON
Party in a box!
Re: ...knock...knock!
Those holes look a little wallowed out there alex. Im sure i dont have to mention it but loctite is your friend :tup:
j/k.....love ya man!
Those holes look a little wallowed out there alex. Im sure i dont have to mention it but loctite is your friend :tup:
j/k.....love ya man!
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: ...knock...knock!
SFI replacement?
It's a small thing but when I install mine I rotate it clockwise (Yes clockwise as you're facing the plate and granted it's only a tiny amount) up against the locater pin so there's a better chance of the pin carrying some of the load. Granted the clamping force of the bolts prolly carry 98% of the load but I feel better. :rotf:
Relatively happy ending to a potentially big problem, good catch. To me it looks like the bolts stayed tight, any damage to the crank?
SFI replacement?
It's a small thing but when I install mine I rotate it clockwise (Yes clockwise as you're facing the plate and granted it's only a tiny amount) up against the locater pin so there's a better chance of the pin carrying some of the load. Granted the clamping force of the bolts prolly carry 98% of the load but I feel better. :rotf:
Relatively happy ending to a potentially big problem, good catch. To me it looks like the bolts stayed tight, any damage to the crank?
qbnkiller
Conflaguration Specialist
Re: ...knock...knock!
No damage to anything at all. Bolts were Loctited. When I put the motor in last year, I had the flexplate inspected for cracks, and it was fine.
I was having a hell of a time pinpointing the source of a bad engine vibration at idle, along with what sounded just like a hollow rod knock. When I got underneath the truck, I was indexing the flexplate to start removing the torque converter-to-flexplate bolts, when I hit a few spots that moved a little too easy. After I took the whole thing apart, I saw this.
No damage to anything at all. Bolts were Loctited. When I put the motor in last year, I had the flexplate inspected for cracks, and it was fine.
I was having a hell of a time pinpointing the source of a bad engine vibration at idle, along with what sounded just like a hollow rod knock. When I got underneath the truck, I was indexing the flexplate to start removing the torque converter-to-flexplate bolts, when I hit a few spots that moved a little too easy. After I took the whole thing apart, I saw this.
BowTy
New member
Re: ...knock...knock!
Sorry to hear, and that happened too fast. Seen this before but only after quite a few miles, and on non-SyTy motors as well. Started to magnaflux them thereafter and never had one that was without some cracks.
What are those gray smears running away from a couple of the bolt holes? Was it thread lube for under just the bolt head for accurate torque readings? ARP use to sell a threadlocker/pipe dope/thread lube combo paste but long since discontinued (must be toxic as it was the bomb for some areas) and it was the only thread locker I saw that was grey.
Sure you are very pleased to have found your knock sound, and find this issue now :tup:.
Jeff M
Sorry to hear, and that happened too fast. Seen this before but only after quite a few miles, and on non-SyTy motors as well. Started to magnaflux them thereafter and never had one that was without some cracks.
What are those gray smears running away from a couple of the bolt holes? Was it thread lube for under just the bolt head for accurate torque readings? ARP use to sell a threadlocker/pipe dope/thread lube combo paste but long since discontinued (must be toxic as it was the bomb for some areas) and it was the only thread locker I saw that was grey.
Sure you are very pleased to have found your knock sound, and find this issue now :tup:.
Jeff M
BMFB
Not to scale
Re: ...knock...knock!
I have a similar sound coming from my typhoon...sounds low, but theres no metal in my oil or anything, and i cant really hear it get any worse as the engine revvs up. by the way, where does you guy's oil pressure gauge sit on a stock motor, mine sits really low, but its always steady...
I have a similar sound coming from my typhoon...sounds low, but theres no metal in my oil or anything, and i cant really hear it get any worse as the engine revvs up. by the way, where does you guy's oil pressure gauge sit on a stock motor, mine sits really low, but its always steady...
qbnkiller
Conflaguration Specialist
Re: ...knock...knock!
The grey smears are from the ARP threadlocker...I still have some left. I had the plate maged while I had it apart. They tell me it was fine (even though tit was the stocker), but apparently it wasnt. There is no way I could have done that in such a short amount of time.
The bolts were all tight when I took them off..the holes are all clean. I should have the new one later today (SFI). If all goes well, will have the Ty on the roads by tonight. I have to re-check my valve lash one more time (while I am in there), and I should be good.
WORD OF WARNING TO PEOPLE! CHANGE THE FLEXPLATE WHEN YOU DO YOUR BUILD!! A stock replacement is only about $30-40. An SFI-approved one is about $90. IF THIS WERE TO LET GO, EXPECT CARNAGE OF THE TRUCK AND POSSIBLY THE DRIVER!!
The grey smears are from the ARP threadlocker...I still have some left. I had the plate maged while I had it apart. They tell me it was fine (even though tit was the stocker), but apparently it wasnt. There is no way I could have done that in such a short amount of time.
The bolts were all tight when I took them off..the holes are all clean. I should have the new one later today (SFI). If all goes well, will have the Ty on the roads by tonight. I have to re-check my valve lash one more time (while I am in there), and I should be good.
WORD OF WARNING TO PEOPLE! CHANGE THE FLEXPLATE WHEN YOU DO YOUR BUILD!! A stock replacement is only about $30-40. An SFI-approved one is about $90. IF THIS WERE TO LET GO, EXPECT CARNAGE OF THE TRUCK AND POSSIBLY THE DRIVER!!
BowTy
New member
Re: ...knock...knock!
Oh so you still got some of that good gray goo, nice, I use the last bit I have sparingly, and sounds like it lasted just fine in your case. Really like this with blocks that have the holes for the head bolts/studs go into the water jacket, holds the bolts water tight, allows you to have lube for good torque measurements on bolts, and if studs; helps keep them (once allowed to setup) in place when you are going for the torque readings on your nuts, hate it when the stud turns too.
Wow, good to know that even one mag'd don't mean she's safe to use, words of wisdom to save the mag'd money and just go new, not that much money :tup:. And yea, I don't think many run a scatter shield to protect them from flying flywheel parts!
Wonder if there was any out or round or out of balance or such to add to making the metal fail like that? Did the converter bolts look kosher and nothing revealing there? any kind of engine miss (doubt it really considering you are smarter than to have such a condition ;-) as that would shake the engine/flywheel (really reaching here I know).
How about bolts over-tightened and the metal splitting starting all this? Once again, don't mean to say you don't know a wrench
Better luck now!
Jeff M
Oh so you still got some of that good gray goo, nice, I use the last bit I have sparingly, and sounds like it lasted just fine in your case. Really like this with blocks that have the holes for the head bolts/studs go into the water jacket, holds the bolts water tight, allows you to have lube for good torque measurements on bolts, and if studs; helps keep them (once allowed to setup) in place when you are going for the torque readings on your nuts, hate it when the stud turns too.
Wow, good to know that even one mag'd don't mean she's safe to use, words of wisdom to save the mag'd money and just go new, not that much money :tup:. And yea, I don't think many run a scatter shield to protect them from flying flywheel parts!
Wonder if there was any out or round or out of balance or such to add to making the metal fail like that? Did the converter bolts look kosher and nothing revealing there? any kind of engine miss (doubt it really considering you are smarter than to have such a condition ;-) as that would shake the engine/flywheel (really reaching here I know).
How about bolts over-tightened and the metal splitting starting all this? Once again, don't mean to say you don't know a wrench
Better luck now!
Jeff M
ty166
Donating Member
Re: ...knock...knock!
lookin at the bolts being the cause is a waste of time , here is the picture i posted in another thread
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o279/1315wayne/flywheel1.jpg
i know it wasnt caused by the bolts , didnt break anywhere near the bolts , just gm crappy flex plate , like luke stated they are still having issues with this 15 years later. and it goes back longer than our sy/tys , mine wa soutta of a 88 suburban 5.7tbi motor , so we know horsepower didnt cause it (lol).
lookin at the bolts being the cause is a waste of time , here is the picture i posted in another thread
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o279/1315wayne/flywheel1.jpg
i know it wasnt caused by the bolts , didnt break anywhere near the bolts , just gm crappy flex plate , like luke stated they are still having issues with this 15 years later. and it goes back longer than our sy/tys , mine wa soutta of a 88 suburban 5.7tbi motor , so we know horsepower didnt cause it (lol).
BowTy
New member
Re: ...knock...knock!
I would not consider it a waste of time to ask, or to learn its common for the OEMs to fail :lol: Thanks for the info, mine is out (stock but had balance work done to it), and it does not look bad like these, but I can still see slight cracks by the bolt holes on mine, already planning to go with better, just need to check to see if my bowtie block is any different then the OEMs when spec'g this part.
Jeff M
I would not consider it a waste of time to ask, or to learn its common for the OEMs to fail :lol: Thanks for the info, mine is out (stock but had balance work done to it), and it does not look bad like these, but I can still see slight cracks by the bolt holes on mine, already planning to go with better, just need to check to see if my bowtie block is any different then the OEMs when spec'g this part.
Jeff M
ty166
Donating Member
Re: ...knock...knock!
i didnt mean asking was a waste of time i meant everyone seems to believe its always loose flex plates bolts which causes this problem, which is not the case. i just posted this so you can see its not the bolts that cause the problem its the flex plate itself is junk from day one. either way i always throw the stockers in the trash.
i didnt mean asking was a waste of time i meant everyone seems to believe its always loose flex plates bolts which causes this problem, which is not the case. i just posted this so you can see its not the bolts that cause the problem its the flex plate itself is junk from day one. either way i always throw the stockers in the trash.
BowTy
New member
Re: ...knock...knock!
Sorry, did not know everyone was thinking that as I have not frequented the forum posts here that much to see this. It was one of a few thoughts I was having since up till your post there was no good reason for it to happen, not that there is anything good about it happening :lol:
Glad you said something, now I will for sure go with a quality aftermarket :tup: And in the future anyone coming to this post (though knock..knock won't be a good clue to "buy a better flex plate") will have the info they need, seems a few already are asking if people think their knock/noise is coming from the same area.
Jeff M
Sorry, did not know everyone was thinking that as I have not frequented the forum posts here that much to see this. It was one of a few thoughts I was having since up till your post there was no good reason for it to happen, not that there is anything good about it happening :lol:
Glad you said something, now I will for sure go with a quality aftermarket :tup: And in the future anyone coming to this post (though knock..knock won't be a good clue to "buy a better flex plate") will have the info they need, seems a few already are asking if people think their knock/noise is coming from the same area.
Jeff M
alwayscode390
pppssssshhhhhtttttttttttt
Re: ...knock...knock!
geez, nice catch ... glad it worked out that way for ya ---
geez, nice catch ... glad it worked out that way for ya
---
Windedv6
Ty n 10s
Re: ...knock...knock!
No difference when using a bowtie block vs a stock block. The application differences in which flex plate will work will be whether you run a one piece or a two piece seal crank. The other difference will be whether you are running an internally or enternally balanced crank. This assumes a 168 tooth flexplate is use in all these cases. You can also get the several applications in a 153 tooth flexplate. The 153 tooth flex plate is smaller and lighter but does require a different starter. Also the 153 tooth plate will not work with the larger dia TC sizes.
Looking at where the cracks are in your broken flexplate pics, it seems as if the flexplate was doing a lot of forward and back movement at the edges vs the center. Possibly more than normal. Always make sure that there is the correct amount of gap between the TC and the trans pump when installing a different TC or flexplate. And always use the correct torque spec when tighting the crank bolts as well as the flex plate bolts. Uneven bolt torque around the pattern will cause areas to stress differently which will lead to early material fatigue
It is also a good thing to check your driveshaft length when lowering your vehicles with lowering blocks. Lowering with lowering blocks can cuase the rear alxe to set forward farther and may cause problems throughout the drivetrain.
John
No difference when using a bowtie block vs a stock block. The application differences in which flex plate will work will be whether you run a one piece or a two piece seal crank. The other difference will be whether you are running an internally or enternally balanced crank. This assumes a 168 tooth flexplate is use in all these cases. You can also get the several applications in a 153 tooth flexplate. The 153 tooth flex plate is smaller and lighter but does require a different starter. Also the 153 tooth plate will not work with the larger dia TC sizes.
Looking at where the cracks are in your broken flexplate pics, it seems as if the flexplate was doing a lot of forward and back movement at the edges vs the center. Possibly more than normal. Always make sure that there is the correct amount of gap between the TC and the trans pump when installing a different TC or flexplate. And always use the correct torque spec when tighting the crank bolts as well as the flex plate bolts. Uneven bolt torque around the pattern will cause areas to stress differently which will lead to early material fatigue
It is also a good thing to check your driveshaft length when lowering your vehicles with lowering blocks. Lowering with lowering blocks can cuase the rear alxe to set forward farther and may cause problems throughout the drivetrain.
John
Last edited: