Ignition module testing??

B

bg_bls

New member
I just recently got my Sy about a month ago and have been doing all of the basic maintenance, but I ran into an ignition problem.

I replaced the coil(stock), plug wires(MSD), distibutor(autozone), plugs(UR5). It had WOT missing problems a week later :evil: I read the ignition module in the autozone dizzy sucks. I went and got a GM replacement and then the truck wouldn't start. I swapped back to my original IM and the truck still doesn't start. I am not getting any spark at all.


Is there any way to test an ignition module? Any other suggestions?


Brian
 
93 TY 2185

93 TY 2185

Donating Member
IgnitionModTesting.jpg

IgnitionModTesting2.jpg
 
SY2932

SY2932

Administrator
Just a word of caution, if your are fighting a no spark problem, pull the ECMB fuse. That way the fuel pump isn't *constantly* priming the injectors and dumping fuel into your cylinders everytime you try to start it... Your motor will thank you for this when you do get spark and it starts :wink: .

Definately sounds like the ignition module is shot. Had the same problem with my truck in the spring. Make sure that you clean the surface on the bottom of the ignition module and where it sits on top of the distributor before you give it a liberal coating of dielectric grease. That way it will get maximum heat transfer to stay cool and give you many years of trouble free service.
 
B

bg_bls

New member
SY2932 said:
Just a word of caution, if your are fighting a no spark problem, pull the ECMB fuse. That way the fuel pump isn't *constantly* priming the injectors and dumping fuel into your cylinders everytime you try to start it... Your motor will thank you for this when you do get spark and it starts :wink: .

Definately sounds like the ignition module is shot. Had the same problem with my truck in the spring. Make sure that you clean the surface on the bottom of the ignition module and where it sits on top of the distributor before you give it a liberal coating of dielectric grease. That way it will get maximum heat transfer to stay cool and give you many years of trouble free service.
Click to expand...

Good idea on the fuse. :tup:

My original ignition module worked fine except at WOT. Tried swapping to a brand new one and the truck wouldn't start. Even after I swapped back to the original one it wouldn't start again. Do you think both of them are messed up??
 
SY2932

SY2932

Administrator
When it comes to working on ignition stuff, make SURE your wires are on tight. That plug on the passenger side can me a PITA to get on and off... Not to be a smartass but, you do have the cap FULLY seated on the distributor correct? It is *easy* to do incorrectly if you're not careful... Lastly, have you grounded the coil wire and cranked it to make sure that the coil/wire is ok?
 
B

bg_bls

New member
My friend and I worked on it for about three hours last night. We must have taken it all apart and back again at least three times. :eek: I am pretty sure all of the connections are tight. I was not getting any spark from the dizzy, but I didn't think to test the coil. The coil is getting power and sending power so I think it is ok, but I will double check. I KNOW it is going to be something stupid.....it always is :wink:

Thanks guys for the help and I will keep you posted when i work on it tomorrow.


Brian
 
bigtime

bigtime

Sy-Ty Builder
I personally change the module(with a GM one) everytime i do a major tune up. Theres a ton of heat back there and they don't like it!
 
B

bg_bls

New member
I found the problem. The rotor was spinning freely on the distributor :roll: The key inside the rotor was completely gone. I have no idea how we missed that when we took it apart. Oh well, truck is running like a champ now.


Thanks again,
Brian
 
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