FMIC question

sy605

Member
If you have or had a FMIC in front of your radiator do you have problems overheating the truck in traffic/idling/AC on etc?


Looking for feedback from members who have ran this setup before or currently.

Searched and couldn't find any info.

Thanks in advance.
 

CC801

Donating Member
Re: FMIC question

I have a 4in fmic with intrepid fans, 160° thermostat, edelbrock water pump, stock radiator and ac runs 180-185 consistently here in florida.
 

SYCLONE#1531

'MOFOFAST
Re: FMIC question

Mine was fine with normal driving. It would heat up considerably at the track while running higher boost and timing! The fmic is fine for your average daily driver that doesn't run the crap out of it. But if you drive it like its stolen like I did, my suggestion would be to put it below the bumper. This is what I'm doing when mine hits the track again! I was running on the average of 27lbs and 28 degrees of timing which probably didn't help with the over heating!

Here's mine..
 

autoaddictions

Active member
Re: FMIC question

Rpms inter cooler kit sit were the factory heat exchanger is. It won't effect airflow at all. I made over 650 Hp with that unit. It's a great piece.
 

sy605

Member
Re: FMIC question

Rpms inter cooler kit sit were the factory heat exchanger is. It won't effect airflow at all. I made over 650 Hp with that unit. It's a great piece.

I had a Kenne Bell intercooler I sold but later down the road (way down) I plan to be over 600HP and don't want the hassle of redoing everything. The RPM unit is essentially the same as the Kenne Bell. I like the RPM unit but for the price I can build one that handles far more power and heat. Not to knock RPM they make great stuff.
 

13.robb

New member
Re: FMIC question

I have a similar setup as 2960's. I run dual fans from a pontiac firebird, I run about 200-205 in heavy traffic las vegas during the summers, 180 stat, It will run down to 180 on the highway cruising.
 

elorejas

Member
Re: FMIC question

I installed a rpm unit and I can't get the intake temps to go down at 100 degrees today it reached like at 150 at alight and about 120-130 normal driving. Don't know what else to do to drop the temperatures
 
Re: FMIC question

I run one in front of the radiator. I had bad luck with heating up until I ditched the electric fans and went back to the stock clutch fan with shroud and got rid of the stupid under drive pulley that was on there.
 

elorejas

Member
Re: FMIC question

How does the methanol injection work doesn't that only spray under boost. And how much exactly does the temps drop with it
 

Ross L

Member
Re: FMIC question

How does the methanol injection work doesn't that only spray under boost. And how much exactly does the temps drop with it

Yes, only under boost. Intake temp sitting at a red light doesn't matter. What does matter is intake temps at WOT/full boost. Alky injection can drastically drop intake temps and actually make your intake *cool* to the touch after a full quarter mile pass. Its crazy:tup:
 

Damian

Member
Re: FMIC question

I installed a rpm unit and I can't get the intake temps to go down at 100 degrees today it reached like at 150 at alight and about 120-130 normal driving. Don't know what else to do to drop the temperatures

Methanol injection or get those intercooler sprayers that spray water or nitrous on the intercooler itself. Id do water like the Evos do.
 

T-Bone

Active member
Re: FMIC question

Eric, I ran a large 3" thick FMIC on the Lap 1 Ty that sat directly in front of the radiator. IAT's dropped under full boost from 175-190 range (210> will start melting pistons) to around 120-130. When I was just driving normal, it fluctuated between 70-90 on cool days and 85-105 on summer days. No A/C though.

Couple things to consider if you go this route.

1) Prepare to have a pin on hood set-up. The factory hood latch brace must be removed. You can be creative for the latch w/o the brace but I don't have any experience doing that :(
2) The hot air from your FMIC WILL travel through your radiator increasing your coolant temps but a quality set of fans with proper shrouding will overcome that issue.
3) I had to cut away parts of my front brace for proper pipe routing.

Since I transferred the Lap 1 bowtie drivetrain into the Aspen, I went with another custom set-up below the radiator just because I could not bring myself to drill holes into the hood for pin latches. My set-up was rated to peak at 900 HP (not that I was pushing near that). If you have plans to pass that number, this will not suffice for you.

I have my custom FMIC and modified front brace with pins tucked away if you decide to go this route and would give you a schweet deal for all of it. The aluminum piping and silicone connectors with clamps can be obtained on ebay very reasonably since I reused the majority of that on the Aspen.
 
Re: FMIC question

Yes, only under boost. Intake temp sitting at a red light doesn't matter. What does matter is intake temps at WOT/full boost. Alky injection can drastically drop intake temps and actually make your intake *cool* to the touch after a full quarter mile pass. Its crazy:tup:

He is right. Once that Alky starts you can watch your scan tool intake temps drop like magic. From 150deg to 90deg real quick.
 

johne30m3

Junior Member
Re: Fmic

Re: Fmic

I have a front mount on my Sy. It does have the factory hood latch and brace. My Sy also has electric fans and temps are usually in the low to mid 170's for the engine even with the front mount. Below is a thread that has a few pictures of my front mount. Good luck!

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=95303

Are those temps just cruising around, 170 degree IAT's seem high for a2a setup? I was thinking about going a2a but I think I might just stay with my a2w setup and just install alky.
 

sy605

Member
Re: FMIC question

That is the plan on mine. :tup: Looks great!

What size intercooler are you going to run with the new engine combo?
 
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