Engine Oiling Improvements

silverblaz

Member
I know this has been talked about before but its hard to pic out little things here and there in the middle of posts.

What are the best ways to improve engine oiling in the 4.3

Obviously the Oil pump is number 1

1 Melling oil pump

2 crank/cam/rod bearings clevite with the H in the part number with the oiling grove.

I am hoping there are other things that others have come up with please add to this list and make it an easy search for everyone
 
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dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

Obviously the Oil pump is number 1

1 Melling M55-A correct me if have the number wrong

You definately don't want the Melling M55 oil pump, you will want atleast a Melling Slect Oil Pump, do a serach on melling failure.
 

silverblaz

Member
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

sorry i relised that after i typed it inthe 55 is what is stuck in my head for the melling number
 

turbodig

Active member
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

I'd suggest avoiding Melling altogether. Their response to the rash of broken pumps has been less than stellar.
 

silverblaz

Member
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

Care to add some more to that ??? suggestions on pumps brands pickups ???

I can't imagine that there is NO ONE on this site that has done anything to improve oiling in these engines.
 

4C FED

Absolutum Dominium
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

Personally, I don't like having bypass valves in the oilling system.
I want all of the oil to get filtered.
On the Syclone I removed the bypass valve in the block & plugged the hole.
And since I'm running a filter on the block I didn't have to worry about the bypass in the remote filter housing.

You can also improve oil flow by porting/smoothing the oil pocket on the rear main cap.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

Personally, I don't like having bypass valves in the oilling system.
I want all of the oil to get filtered.
On the Syclone I removed the bypass valve in the block & plugged the hole.
And since I'm running a filter on the block I didn't have to worry about the bypass in the remote filter housing.

You can also improve oil flow by porting/smoothing the oil pocket on the rear main cap.

Well ya gotta have one (bypass) somewhere. The one in the pump relieves back to the pan. Closing the others may or may not be good. Lots of elements have their own bypass to protect the media.

I'm considering porting/smoothing the oil passage as suggested. There are also oil restrictors (sp?) for the lifter gallery which sends more oil to the mains but I'm not sure you can use those with hyd lifters.
 

Trapper

New member
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

I have a HP oil pump in my Typhoon I dont know what one it is but I know Kessler had a problem with the first Meling pump he had in this one that I'm now finding out, but with the pump I have now it takes it a while in this cooler weather for the pressure to come down below 80 psi untill the motor really warms up. I would think a stock like oil pump would do the job just fine.
 

gkrcr882

SyTyless......for now!
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

I've also heard that there is no real benefit to going to a high volume oil pump, since it will actually take more horsepower to drive than a stock one does. There are tricks out there like polishing the lifter valley to speed up oil return, and even using plugs in the oil return holes in the valley (only leaving the large ones at each end open) to reduce cam windage. If it actually works, who knows.
 

4C FED

Absolutum Dominium
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

You don't have to have a bypass, unless you live in a cold climate.

There are plenty of high burst rated filters for us to use to not worry about this. Moroso (up to 650 psi rated), K&N, etc. If you drive in a cold climate then you might want to consider maintaining 1 bypass valve.

In older VW's, Type 1's, the only filtering is with a metal strainer much like most people use in the kitchen. For performance builds they do what is called a "full flow system" which plugs the bypass & routes the oil outside to an external spin-on filter.
It works just fine & has been done this way for a very long time.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

You don't have to have a bypass, unless you live in a cold climate.

There are plenty of high burst rated filters for us to use to not worry about this. Moroso (up to 650 psi rated), K&N, etc. If you drive in a cold climate then you might want to consider maintaining 1 bypass valve.

In older VW's, Type 1's, the only filtering is with a metal strainer much like most people use in the kitchen. For performance builds they do what is called a "full flow system" which plugs the bypass & routes the oil outside to an external spin-on filter.
It works just fine & has been done this way for a very long time.

I would agree. IMO Most "bypass" relief valves are there to protect against clogged filters. The main bypass in the pump is what controls the oil pressure we see. I also would agree with the high flow comment from the standpoint of our engines being 25% smaller than a standard Chev. it would seem a large amount of pump capacity is being wasted especially if we install a high volume pump.

Full flow filters have been around for more than 50 years. Look at the intake of an old Chev. 6 (for example) and if there is a filter there that is a bypass filter which takes a little of the oil pump output and filters it back to the pan. The engine itself is lubed by unfiltered oil. I would bet that virtually all automotive engines prior to, say 1950, ran on unfiltered oil. Even piston aircraft engines until the last 25 years or so had nothing more than a course screen.

End of ramble :lol:
 

blk00z28

Forced to by choice
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

You can open the oiling holes and the groves in the mains and the holes in the crank. Inlarge them a little and smooth them out which will let more oil in there.

I'd watch out with opening up the lifter valley to much. You can actually starve the rockers and the lifters if the oil drains back to the pan to fast.

Has anyone actually ported their stock oil pump? If so can you post pictures, and did you notice a increase/decrease in pressure from before?
 

4C FED

Absolutum Dominium
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

You're not rambling Don.
Every engine builder has there way of doing things. There is typically more than one way to skin a cat.

FWIW, I looked at my block today & the oil bypass in the block. It does not simply drain back to the pan when the valve opens. It does however feed the oil passages with unfiltered oil when the pressure in the filter exceeds the spring rate in the bypass. It's a pretty light spring. I'd like to find a gauge to measure what the spring rate is. I'll have to see if I can borrow one from work.

Here is a discussion I found. I like this analogy: "Would you put a flapper valve on the aircleaner lid of a dirt car, so that if the air filter does not flow enough air the flapper will open and let in unfilterd air? NO, you run an air filter that will flow enough air."
 

Big Mike

New member
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

Here is an idea for an oil pump http://www.titanspeed.com/content/pump/
pump_gmprodrag_catlede.jpg
may be a little pricy though, tell me what you think.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

You're not rambling Don.
Every engine builder has there way of doing things. There is typically more than one way to skin a cat.

FWIW, I looked at my block today & the oil bypass in the block. It does not simply drain back to the pan when the valve opens. It does however feed the oil passages with unfiltered oil when the pressure in the filter exceeds the spring rate in the bypass. It's a pretty light spring. I'd like to find a gauge to measure what the spring rate is. I'll have to see if I can borrow one from work.

Here is a discussion I found. I like this analogy: "Would you put a flapper valve on the aircleaner lid of a dirt car, so that if the air filter does not flow enough air the flapper will open and let in unfilterd air? NO, you run an air filter that will flow enough air."

I read the entire link, whew.. Great comments. I will reserve judgment for final assembly on my build. Thanks!
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

Here is an idea for an oil pump http://www.titanspeed.com/content/pump/
pump_gmprodrag_catlede.jpg
may be a little pricy though, tell me what you think.

I emailed these folks. Rather expensive. They pointed out that cheap Chinese knockoffs are out there. My understanding was they are geared (sorry for the pun) for high revving apps where a spur gear pump will cavitate. Since we, normally, don't go over 6k I decided it wasn't necessary because of the cost. Better pump if cost is not a factor. IMHO
 

Trapper

New member
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

You don't have to have a bypass, unless you live in a cold climate.

There are plenty of high burst rated filters for us to use to not worry about this. Moroso (up to 650 psi rated), K&N, etc. If you drive in a cold climate then you might want to consider maintaining 1 bypass valve.

In older VW's, Type 1's, the only filtering is with a metal strainer much like most people use in the kitchen. For performance builds they do what is called a "full flow system" which plugs the bypass & routes the oil outside to an external spin-on filter.
It works just fine & has been done this way for a very long time.

Well until I find a bypass system could I use 0-30w oil? I have seen oil bypass systems in hydraulic application with my concrete pumps but the fittings are pretty big and pressure is measured in hundreds of bars.
 

4C FED

Absolutum Dominium
Re: Engine Oiling Improvements

Well until I find a bypass system could I use 0-30w oil? I have seen oil bypass systems in hydraulic application with my concrete pumps but the fittings are pretty big and pressure is measured in hundreds of bars.
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?productID=2&subCategoryID=1&categoryID=1

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx
Amsoil says:
APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for use in gasoline engines, diesel engines (API CF, ACEA B5) and other applications requiring SAE 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30 with the following worldwide specifications:

• API SM/CF, SL, SJ …
• ILSAC GF-4, 3 …
• ACEA A5/B5-04
• GM 4718M, 6094M
• Ford WSS-M2C929-A
• Daimler Chrysler MS-6395N
• VW 503.00
• Honda/Acura HTO-06
 
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