Engine Break in

Robert Lone

MUTANT
Re: Engine Break in

This is what I was told by the OG that schoolled me.

During break-in, drive the way you are going to drive after break-in.

Std stock rebuilds, Non-detergent 30wt oil for 500 miles then change over to whatever conventional oil you are going to be running. If you are going to run synthetic, have at least 5K miles on the rings before you change over to make for damned sure the rings are seated.

For HotRods (moly rings), Valvoline Racing 20W50 for break-in. 500 miles or several passes. Then Mobil 1 fo-evah.

That doesn't make my method correct, it's just what I do.

NOTE: Be on the lookout for metal in the oil filter. There will be some in it on new engines. However, 75% of it should be seen in the first filter.

:2cents:
 

Bill Z

Donating Member
Re: Engine Break in

I was tought the same as above. However I wouldn't start busting launches until after 1000 miles or so. Within that first 1000 miles I'd go into boost like passing folks and the like.
 

JSM

Active member
Re: Engine Break in

Our motors are roller cams so not the break-in as once was.

If built right really doesn't need much, but letting things settle, etc is not a bad idea.
 

SY2455

70's Veteran
Re: Engine Break in

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I Always wanted to do this
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.

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33769&page=2&pp=15
 

gkrcr882

SyTyless......for now!
Re: Engine Break in

There are several schools of thought when it comes to breaking in engines, everything from the "drive it gentle" to the "drive it like ya stole it" technique. T-56 is correct in stating that you should avoid synthetic for a few hundered (possibly 1-2K) miles to ensure that the rings properly seat and seal against the cylinder walls. The main things to remember are to allow the engine to warm up before placing it under high speed/load, and to vary the speed while driving. I'm not advising going from idle to WOT every other block, just do some city driving combined with light freeway. The first oil change is critical due to the fact that all of the unseen metal filings and broken down assembly lubricant will be in the oil, and you (obviously) don't want metal filings swimming around in your turbo or in the valvetrain. You can never change the oil too much during break-in, since contaminants will be in the whole system, meaning the cooler, cooler lines, turbo & lines, and oil filter lines. Better to do an extra change and make sure it's really clean vs have some problem down the road IMO. Most importantly..........Have fun with the new engine!:tup:
 

SY2455

70's Veteran
Re: Engine Break in

Thinking about this more, I have a Question. When our trucks were built they came with Mobil 1 synthetic. Were the engine pre-broken in, than change from the factory?
 

Jer

Don't taze me bro!
Re: Engine Break in

To me, the most important part is to Vary the engine loads for the first few hundred miles (NO highway driving) and change the oil. The rest is debatable.
 

SeattleSy#1255

Category 5 Conservative
Re: Engine Break in

JS Manufacturing said:
Our motors are roller cams so not the break-in as once was.

If built right really doesn't need much, but letting things settle, etc is not a bad idea.

this is how I always understood it...with roller camed motors anyway.
 

Robert Lone

MUTANT
Re: Engine Break in

SY2455 said:
Thinking about this more, I have a Question. When our trucks were built they came with Mobil 1 synthetic. Were the engine pre-broken in, than change from the factory?
I know that GM and others send out high performance vehicles w/ Mobil 1 already in them. This goes against everything that I was taught. I've never tried it and don't plan to. Richard Johnson's system has never failed me and until it does, I will not change.

That does not mean in any way that this is the only way that will work nor is it the best way to break stuff in. Just a way that works for me. :2cents:
 
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