http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmgoodwrenchjsp/perfparts/partlist.jsp?cat=9314§ion=ep I'm looking at the bottom block on this page, it's a 4 bolt splayed nodular iron cranked block. It's about $700 cheaper then a 4 bolt billet capped block. I was wondering if
A)anyone had purchased one, if so had they had any luck with it
B)if they hadn't, has anyone ever cracked a Nodular iron cap in a syty and how much power were you pushing (detonation included)
C)is it worth the extra $700 to get the steel, even though those are splayed bolt nodular iron caps?
D)Am I better off taking a stock block, going through the trouble of getting it cleaned/magged/punched/capped? I know that if I do is option it's got advantages of it's own, but I'm not too sure if I like the idea of putting that much money into a non new block honestly, because it'll be like $1000 buy the caps and bore the mains, and $200 to get it cleaned/magged/punched, by the time I get it here that Nodular iron capped block probably be an extra $800 versus reworking the a stocker 4.3L block.
E)just say #*%@ it and see what a stocker 4.3L's mains can take (may happen anyways, I know of a guy with a 4.3L that's got a cracked block, may just get the induction system going on it and seewhat the mains on it can take)
I'm wanting to build a 4.3L that'll get me near the 12s or 11s with about 3800-4000 pounds or so (about a Ty's weight, it's gonna be an AWD Astro van stripped as much as possible) so it's gotta be able to take a lot of power and abuse.
A)anyone had purchased one, if so had they had any luck with it
B)if they hadn't, has anyone ever cracked a Nodular iron cap in a syty and how much power were you pushing (detonation included)
C)is it worth the extra $700 to get the steel, even though those are splayed bolt nodular iron caps?
D)Am I better off taking a stock block, going through the trouble of getting it cleaned/magged/punched/capped? I know that if I do is option it's got advantages of it's own, but I'm not too sure if I like the idea of putting that much money into a non new block honestly, because it'll be like $1000 buy the caps and bore the mains, and $200 to get it cleaned/magged/punched, by the time I get it here that Nodular iron capped block probably be an extra $800 versus reworking the a stocker 4.3L block.
E)just say #*%@ it and see what a stocker 4.3L's mains can take (may happen anyways, I know of a guy with a 4.3L that's got a cracked block, may just get the induction system going on it and seewhat the mains on it can take)
I'm wanting to build a 4.3L that'll get me near the 12s or 11s with about 3800-4000 pounds or so (about a Ty's weight, it's gonna be an AWD Astro van stripped as much as possible) so it's gotta be able to take a lot of power and abuse.
at though