ECM question

sy2756

New member
I am still chasing my idling problem. My truck seems to idle fine in drive but in park it surges. I was watching the injector pulse width when it starts to surge and it sometimes jumps from 1.2ms to 30ms. I shut the engine off key in run and watch the pulse width and it will do the same thing. Has anyone ever seen this? Bad ECM maybe? What am I missing?
 

sy2756

New member
leroy said:
That's normal from what I've seen.

Jim

Thanks for the reply. The idle surging in park is normal? Or the injector pulse width jumping? Having never driven one of these trucks before I have no idea.
 

smeagol

Active member
The super high injector pulsewidth spikes are normal readings on a scan tool but are NOT *real*. From what I've been told they are errors in the messaging of the ALDL.
 

sy2756

New member
Thanks for the replys. What is the difference between the truck idleing in park vs drive? It seems to idle fine in drive.

I have replaced all of my ingintion components, checked my timing.

I have also checked for vacuum leaks via the bike tube trick, but here is where I have another question. My throttle body shaft leaks pretty bad using the compressed air but if you spray starting fluid or propane around it the idle does not change. These are both ways of checking for vacuum leaks suggested on this board so which one do I believe?
 

leroy

Donating Member
sy2756 said:
Thanks for the replys. What is the difference between the truck idleing in park vs drive? It seems to idle fine in drive.
The vacuum would be different. The load is more in drive. The ecm also commands different idle speed/settings.

I have replaced all of my ingintion components, checked my timing.

I have also checked for vacuum leaks via the bike tube trick, but here is where I have another question. My throttle body shaft leaks pretty bad using the compressed air but if you spray starting fluid or propane around it the idle does not change. These are both ways of checking for vacuum leaks suggested on this board so which one do I believe?

I prefer the bike tube method, ever since I saw the guy with second degree burns on his arms from the starting fluid fire. The bike tube method only checks for leaks on the manifold side of the check valves.

Consider cleaning the IAC also. The throttle stop may need to be adjusted depending on what your IAC opening is.

Jim
 

sy2756

New member
I have pulled and cleaned the IAC and passages, looked fairly clean to start with. Put it all back together same deal. IAC counts are between 30 and 40 in park and a little higher in drive. Adjusted the throttle stop so they were about 20 in park(??). Same problem.

I also checked my fuel pressure, 42 psi with the vac line disconected.



Is the TB shaft repairable by a machine shop? Looks like its not a servicable part. I'm guessing a replacement would be about $200-300.
Thats a lot of money for something that may or may not fix this problem.
I also don't understand why this would cause a problem in park/nuetral and not in drive.
 

leroy

Donating Member
A machine shop can put bushings in for the throttle shaft, but I don't think that's your problem. It sounds like you've covered all the basics.

Does your idle go up in park? It should be about 125 rpm higher in park, with the stock chip, IIRC.

Jim
 

leroy

Donating Member
I just remembered I had a VSS go out once, that acted similar. I think it set a code, though.

Jim
 

sy2756

New member
leroy said:
A machine shop can put bushings in for the throttle shaft, but I don't think that's your problem. It sounds like you've covered all the basics.

Does your idle go up in park? It should be about 125 rpm higher in park, with the stock chip, IIRC.

Jim

Yea, I don't really think its my problem either. I checked the ECM and I have the stock chip. In drive it idles at 650 +_ 25 RPM. In park it it swings anywhere from 600 to 925. I'm getting frustrated with this thing, good thing its not my daily driver.
 
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