Datamaster questions.

Damian

Member
Trying to figure out (finally) what's wrong with my POS. Datamaster works, but when I try to record a log it tells me select a file name or something like that. Okay, what in the world is it talking about? Next thing. What are the 3 Bar map readings supposed to be? Mine is around 10-12 with the TruBoost showing -18. When I get on it, the Datamaster numbers just go up, not to zero then positive boost. I'm wanting to see if my MAP sensor is the issue here and this just doesn't make sense. Also, what are the IAC counts supposed to be at? Mine is 58-60. Thanks in advance. I'm sure I have more questions since I was doing this stuff a couple hours ago.
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Datamaster questions.

The select file name part is asking you to create a log file which the software then records your logs to. It will do that forever and make one big file unless you create a new file.

I can't recall the kpa setting but it's relative I think. -18 on try boost is a vac. The DM goes from 0 to 12 where 12 is atmosphere and then rises from there. It's relative rather than absolute. It does take a minute to figure out.

As for the IAC... They should be around 30 at idle. Does your truck sometimes die if you come off throttle too quick? Is it hard to start sometimes? Does it die when you put it in gear?

To set the IAC to 30, get the truck running in idle and adjust the throttle set screw and open the blades. Monitor DM to see when you have it right. You won't believe the difference.

HTH.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

I'm having a problem that when I take off from a stop, it goes super lean really fast. So it hesitates really bad.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

I sent my ECU to Hood and he flashed it for my 50lb injectors, turbo, and 3 bar map. Also, Dave told me that these trucks like to see the TPS at .5 volts, mine is 1.37 or something very close to that. But when I open the TB all the way, it does show 100%. When it's closed it shows 0%. Is it still okay? It runs better now that I adjusted it to that so I'm assuming yes.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

Okay, so when I'm monitoring or logging, my laptop just constantly makes what sounds like an error sound. No idea why it does this but it's very annoying!

I have a log of the engine idling. The engine makes a lot of popping, no idea why. All of the ignition stuff is new. Now I just need to figure out how to upload it here.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

I spent more time yesterday adjusting the TB, seems to run better but it still stumbles when you press the gas pedal and it will die if you hold the RPMs up a bit and then let off the gas. Its been doing that last one for awhile now, it mainly did it when you were driving down the street and as you come to a stop, it would go super lean and want to die (sometimes did). Ive never used dropbox before, so here is my first attempt: https://www.dropbox.com/s/o5guphple8066wy/test #3.uni

I did pull the IAC off and clean it not that long ago.
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Datamaster questions.

Also, Dave told me that these trucks like to see the TPS at .5 volts, mine is 1.37 or something very close to that. But when I open the TB all the way, it does show 100%. When it's closed it shows 0%. Is it still okay?

The ECM self adjusts the Throttle Position to 0%, every time it is started. I have never changed my TPS voltage on my Syclone, so I don't know what affect it has. The older 80's GM ECM's, you could adjust the TPS sensor voltage (it was slotted to do so). If the voltage was set too high, the ECM wouldn't recognize 100% throttle, if it was set too low the throttle response suffered (ECM might think 10% was still 0%) TPS also plays a much bigger role in fueling with MAF ECM vs our trucks which MAP based ECM.

The only reason I would adjust the throttle body stop would be if the IAC counts were out of range, either too low at warm idle or too high at cold idle.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

I've been using two different TPS's since I've been having problems. The one I have in now, which I was using during that datalog, is the stock one which is adjustable. If I use the Duralast one, I can adjust the stop and get the .5 volts. The stock one is at 1.3? volts at idle. Both showed 0 percent open at idle and if I opened the throttle they will both show 100 percent open. Both sensors don't help. I have a new MAP sensor on the way, I'll get it Monday. That's the only sensor that hasn't been changed out since I've had these problems. Does Datamaster show the a/f ratio that the ECU sees?
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Datamaster questions.

It seems like you are just throwing parts at the engine. The MAP probably isn't your problem.

Does it have good vacuum lines going to the map sensor and FP regulator?

I don't know if Hood's 50# chip is ultimate based or not. If it Ultimate based it could be open loop fueling; the ECM does not use O2 sensor for fueling corrections. You may just need to play with the fuel pressure regulator. The 50# injectors have a lot of variance, which doesn't may them a good plug and play injector.

What is your fuel pressure set to?
What does you O2 sensor read at idle when this is happening?
You can add a Wide Band 02 which would more clearly determine the fueling.

An mechanical issues that you have also could be contributing to your drivability issues (timing, mis-installed gasket, etc)
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Datamaster questions.

Your 50#s will not keep up with the GT37 in your sig I believe. Did you verify they can?

Will look at your DM log later. I'm rubbish at DM but can try at least!
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

It seems like you are just throwing parts at the engine. The MAP probably isn't your problem.

Does it have good vacuum lines going to the map sensor and FP regulator?

I don't know if Hood's 50# chip is ultimate based or not. If it Ultimate based it could be open loop fueling; the ECM does not use O2 sensor for fueling corrections. You may just need to play with the fuel pressure regulator. The 50# injectors have a lot of variance, which doesn't may them a good plug and play injector.

What is your fuel pressure set to?
What does you O2 sensor read at idle when this is happening?
You can add a Wide Band 02 which would more clearly determine the fueling.

An mechanical issues that you have also could be contributing to your drivability issues (timing, mis-installed gasket, etc)
All vacuum lines are new, and I've gone through to make sure they are where they need to be several times. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but my FPR isn't adjustable. At idle, my wideband is reading high 14s, low 15s. So I can wire in my wideband to the ECU, I'm assuming the chip as to be flashed again for that. Timing has been verified, I installed a new distributor, stock one had worn gears.
Your 50#s will not keep up with the GT37 in your sig I believe. Did you verify they can?

Will look at your DM log later. I'm rubbish at DM but can try at least!

I haven't logged any WOT runs in a long time, but according to my wideband, they do. AFRs under boost stay at mid 11s.

The truck used to run great, pulled on many Vettes and Stangs. Now the AFRs go super lean ass soon as I hit the gas, even when I get going it doesn't run as good as it's supposed to, and it looses all power at high rpms, almost like the engine shuts off and then restarts. I replaces the head gaskets when it first lost power and blew the head gaskets. All gaskets are new and in great shape. Idle is -17 to -19 on my wideband. Plugs are gapped at .30, but they've been like that even when the engine was running great. The reason I'm changing out the MAP sensor is because when I unplug mine, the engine runs super smooth. The O2 voltages are all over the place, when I disconnect it, they hold nice and steady.
 

The Bronze

New member
Re: Datamaster questions.

I see a couple of things that need to be addressed.

Upload one more log starting from the vehicle with just the key-on. Start the car, do your little test again, pull the timing connector to set a code. run it at the load that you start pulling away fuel and stay there for a few minutes. Turn the truck off and restart like you did last time. One log with all that in it. Thanks!
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

I see a couple of things that need to be addressed.

Upload one more log starting from the vehicle with just the key-on. Start the car, do your little test again, pull the timing connector to set a code. run it at the load that you start pulling away fuel and stay there for a few minutes. Turn the truck off and restart like you did last time. One log with all that in it. Thanks!

Whenever I pull the timing connector, the engine always dies. I'll get a log of all that here in an hour or two when I put the kids down to take a nap.
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Datamaster questions.

Only reason I mention the 50s is that I have a GT35, rated to 650hp CHP. A GT37 is a larger turbo. I would expect it to flow more. I run 63s, just thought I'd ask.

The stock crank limit has been around 750 for a good tune. Frank DeNino was the last person I read about that broke a crank and that was the area he was in I believe.
 
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