Conversion to Turbo LS6 update......

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
bareframe2.jpg


Almost completely done with cleaning the frame in preparation for POR15 paint. I hope to have this painted today !

bareframe3.jpg
aas.jpg


And a different angle...

diff2.jpg
aau.jpg


I figuired, 'While I was in there' I would go ahead and install POLY BUSHINGS in the front differential.. Why not ?? Every thing else is going to have POLY in it..

I will clean this up and re-install it.. Dayang I wish I had a POSI/LOCKER to install in it at this time.
 
Last edited:

warmpancakes

New member
whats the part number of the poly cushings? and who makes them? I looked in Energy but they list them for the 87ish years only? Thanks Ken
 

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
warmpancakes said:
whats the part number of the poly cushings? and who makes them? I looked in Energy but they list them for the 87ish years only? Thanks Ken

I got mine through Turbotime they were $30/shipped.

Get in touch with Eric if you are interested.

Be advised.. This is not a project for novices, I realize that you are quite familiar with the business end of a wrench, more referring to others that may NOT have all the tools necessary.. Its not terribly tough with the right tools.
 

DanenGraham

Big in the rear
warmpancakes said:
whats the part number of the poly cushings? and who makes them? I looked in Energy but they list them for the 87ish years only? Thanks Ken

What bushings are you guys talking about. I have my front axle out and might as well do them as well.
 

DanenGraham

Big in the rear
warmpancakes said:
whats the part number of the poly cushings? and who makes them? I looked in Energy but they list them for the 87ish years only? Thanks Ken

What bushings are you guys talking about. I have my front axle out and might as well do them as well.
 

jjorgensen52

NHSTE - I'm the only one!
I wish my frame was that clean! :(
IMG_0476.jpg


I'm gonna need those bushings as well, so it's good to know where I can get them
 

MikeRenz

not stock
jjorgensen52 said:
I wish my frame was that clean! :(
IMG_0476.jpg


I'm gonna need those bushings as well, so it's good to know where I can get them
clean that thing while its bare...geez. heh. cookie dust it at least, or pay some $ and have it blasted
 

jjorgensen52

NHSTE - I'm the only one!
yea I'm having it blasted, and I found a local guy who has an oven big enough to powdercoat it... score! :tup:
And while I have that stripped, I'm rebuilding just about everything else.... I love this project, despite how much fun everyone I know makes of me for it... :rotf:
 

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
DanenGraham said:
What bushings are you guys talking about. I have my front axle out and might as well do them as well.


Initially the plan was to remove the differential for access..

Well that turned into.. Remove for access to paint frame...

Which has since turned into... Remove differential for access to paint frame and INSTALL POLY BUSHINGS.. ---- Thanks Warren Bowley

Which has since changed into.. Remove differential for access to paint frame, install POLY BUSHINGS and now INSTALL A LOCKER !!!!! -- Thanks John Gerber :tup: :tup:

So an unexpected $500+ later.. It will be going back in better than ever and in a TRUE AWD form (instead of the 3 wheel PEEL it will be AWD/4 wheel PEEL !!)
 
Last edited:

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
Oh yeah, expect to see a write up coming soon about the locker installation in the front of the truck.... :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
TurboTony said:
I'd go ahead and rebearing that diff while you have it out.

I do it to all the trucks we do the builds on and more often than not the side bearings are in rough shape from sitting so much. If nothing else, split the cases and rinse out that nasty original oil and drill and tap the case for a drain plug so you can change it again down the road.

Tony



Well, I know first hand what Tony is talking about now..
aag.jpg


bearingrace.jpg



Off to the auto parts store I go...........
 
Last edited:

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
Ok, starting a running total here, so far I am upto this :


$385.24 (1x LockRight locker via turbotime)
$10.77 (2x Grease seals for axle shafts. via Napa Auto Part # 12494)
$19.98 (2x Timken bearings via Autozone part# 012313 Timken Part #SET 11 <---- These are listed as wheel bearings.... )


I am also going to show $10-15 in paint to paint the differential housing and axle shaft housings but these arent mandatory to have the project complete so I wont list above..

Another item is the $$$ to press on the new bearings to the differential carrier housing.. I could have saved some $$$ for that by doing it myself, however, there is an easier way, using the correct tools (that I dont have) so I figuired I would just bite the bullet and do it right. Thats going to be another $10-20 when I pick it up..

Then there is gear lube.. Lockright recommends running 85-140wt oil, this helps with shock loads and also quiets the 'clicking' noises made by the locker itself... I havent acquired any yet so I am not 100% on pricing but its going to be only a coupla dollars...

More pictures to come when I get a chance to throw them up.
 

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
First step of installing the locker is to remove the open setup, the spider gears need to come out..


aae.jpg








I really didnt feel like fighting with the carrier bearings, I went to one Autozone to see if they had the puller to pull the bearings off and no dice. I took the carrier to the machine shop and just going to have them swap out the bearings. Sometimes, things are just easier to have someone with the correct tools... I should be able to pick it up tomorrow with the new bearings installed and move forward from there.. I have enough other things to keep my busy until then anyhow.. Another update will be coming soon [shameless plug] but if you want to look at more conversion related stuff. Check out the gallery on my site. [/shameless plug]
 
Last edited:

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
Sy769 said:
Tell us about that little bolt..... :cool:


The lil bastard keep the splined(castle) nut below it from moving. This controls the depth (for lack of better terminology) of the race that butts against the pressed on bearing on the carrier.. This in effect.. Can alter the wear pattern on the ring gear and backlash adjustments. So in effect, removing this alters the backlash setting on the gears.. Theres apparently a pretty in depth procedure for setting it up again.. Good thing I have the GM Factory service manual handy.. Its going to pay off..

Going to have to make my own custom tool to resecure the nut too. Its a 'spanner' type setup but needs to be a socket (if that makes any sense).. The manual calls out for a specific "J" tool for that application..
 

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
Last update..... Its finally DONE, but first things first.

1. Here is a better view of the castle nuts in the differential.. Dont move these unless you are going to replace the bearings and want to set it up. Its been suggested that even then you dont have to set the backlash up (you do what you want, I had the tools and I set up the correct backlash).
aas.jpg

castlenuts.jpg


2. Here is a picture of the locker loaded into the carrier with the ring gear in place as well. Be advised the ring gear needs to be removed and re-installed for this installation.
aaq.jpg

lockercomplete.jpg


3. After everything was done, the front differential is now complete. I need to get it back in the truck and I will be happy !

aai.jpg

completed.jpg
 
Last edited:

93ty475

Donating Member
:tup:
this truck is going to be brand new when it's done....don't let up man....do 1 thing a week till you finish.... :tup:
 
Top