Six Shooter
New member
I have a broken drivers side motor mount....what needs removed to replace it?? Or maybe a special tool to help....Thanks!
Broken D/S motor mount...
- Thread starter Six Shooter
- Start date
TNPhoon
1of28
Re: Broken D/S motor mount...
Getting it out isn't too terribly bad...If you have a cherry picker, just lift the motor a bit so it doesn't fall and crush you and gives you a little room. If you knock out the rubber you get fairly easy access to the bolts beneath them. Putting back in though is a ****ing bitch to get to those bolts. Gonna be a lot of using your fingers for guidance versus your eyes. Take front tire off too obviously and if possible, getting the wheel well out of the way will keep your arms from getting eaten up. Gonna take a lot of patience and a lot of curse words.
Getting it out isn't too terribly bad...If you have a cherry picker, just lift the motor a bit so it doesn't fall and crush you and gives you a little room. If you knock out the rubber you get fairly easy access to the bolts beneath them. Putting back in though is a ****ing bitch to get to those bolts. Gonna be a lot of using your fingers for guidance versus your eyes. Take front tire off too obviously and if possible, getting the wheel well out of the way will keep your arms from getting eaten up. Gonna take a lot of patience and a lot of curse words.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Broken D/S motor mount...
From a long ago post:
The nuts for the mount on the frame pad are "free." Meaning they are not held in place at all. Although folks have done it I don't see how they get to those nuts. This procedure worked for me.
Have fun...
The way I did it,
With no hoist I put the Sy up on jack stands and removed front bumper, CAC, front tires, wheel wells, exhaust xover. ABS already deleted so not as many lines in the way. After some study I decided that the front dif could be lowered, not removed, by removing the drivers side front support bolt and the pass side support bracket. (5 bolts total.) At that point the dif just kinda hinges down on the remaining drivers side rear bolt. I used a second floor jack to control it. Once this is done you have tons of room and the job becomes easy. Now the rubber mounts that are on the engine presented a problem. Because they were badly distorted I couldn’t reach the bottom bolt on the drivers side and the top bolts on the pas side. The rubber was in the way. By temporally reinstalling the mounts on the pas side I could apply vertical tension to the mount enough to get the rubber out of the way. Drivers side was more difficult but there are two “ears” on the mount that stick down and by putting a spacer between one of them and the top of the front dif I could lower the motor and apply upward tension enough to get to the lower bolt.
The upper bolts for the dif have their nuts inside the frame. If I were to do it again I'd remove only the drivers side and on the pas side I remove dif from the support so I wouldn't have to deal with the upper bolt into the frame on the pas side. Those bolts into the frame go into "free" nuts as well so you'll need to put a wrench on them.
From a long ago post:
The nuts for the mount on the frame pad are "free." Meaning they are not held in place at all. Although folks have done it I don't see how they get to those nuts. This procedure worked for me.
Have fun...
The way I did it,
With no hoist I put the Sy up on jack stands and removed front bumper, CAC, front tires, wheel wells, exhaust xover. ABS already deleted so not as many lines in the way. After some study I decided that the front dif could be lowered, not removed, by removing the drivers side front support bolt and the pass side support bracket. (5 bolts total.) At that point the dif just kinda hinges down on the remaining drivers side rear bolt. I used a second floor jack to control it. Once this is done you have tons of room and the job becomes easy. Now the rubber mounts that are on the engine presented a problem. Because they were badly distorted I couldn’t reach the bottom bolt on the drivers side and the top bolts on the pas side. The rubber was in the way. By temporally reinstalling the mounts on the pas side I could apply vertical tension to the mount enough to get the rubber out of the way. Drivers side was more difficult but there are two “ears” on the mount that stick down and by putting a spacer between one of them and the top of the front dif I could lower the motor and apply upward tension enough to get to the lower bolt.
The upper bolts for the dif have their nuts inside the frame. If I were to do it again I'd remove only the drivers side and on the pas side I remove dif from the support so I wouldn't have to deal with the upper bolt into the frame on the pas side. Those bolts into the frame go into "free" nuts as well so you'll need to put a wrench on them.
Six Shooter
New member
Re: Broken D/S motor mount...
Trying a cherry picker first..wish me luck and thanks for the prompt suggestions.
Trying a cherry picker first..wish me luck and thanks for the prompt suggestions.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Broken D/S motor mount...
This whole thing would be relatively easy IF the three nuts on the back side of the frame pads were captured. Getting to those nuts is the problem everyone has to one degree or another.
I chose to not fight it and to remove or move things to gain access. I wrote that method up many years ago when I installed solid mounts. Obviously I've never done it since. I seem to recall only one member mentioning using it.
The one advantage it -may- offer is the ability to do the final tightening of the frame pad bolts with the engine sitting on the mounts so the alignment is correct. Just a thought, been to many years...:roll:
This whole thing would be relatively easy IF the three nuts on the back side of the frame pads were captured. Getting to those nuts is the problem everyone has to one degree or another.
I chose to not fight it and to remove or move things to gain access. I wrote that method up many years ago when I installed solid mounts. Obviously I've never done it since. I seem to recall only one member mentioning using it.
The one advantage it -may- offer is the ability to do the final tightening of the frame pad bolts with the engine sitting on the mounts so the alignment is correct. Just a thought, been to many years...:roll:
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Broken D/S motor mount...
Yup. Agreed. Just making the comment. I've seen where nuts were captured with a little clip that allowed a bit of movement yet prevented it from turning. It may be a few pennies per vech saved but over millions of vehicles it adds up.
My old diesel instructor used to say there is NOTHING on a casting or other part that is not there for a reason. Same idea.
Yup. Agreed. Just making the comment. I've seen where nuts were captured with a little clip that allowed a bit of movement yet prevented it from turning. It may be a few pennies per vech saved but over millions of vehicles it adds up.
My old diesel instructor used to say there is NOTHING on a casting or other part that is not there for a reason. Same idea.
berzerker
wookie
Re: Broken D/S motor mount...
Of course pas/gm never thought the mounts would have to be replaced or modified
Of course pas/gm never thought the mounts would have to be replaced or modified
Davemc1963
93 Ty Owner
Re: Broken D/S motor mount...
I have been happy with the JTR HD conversion. It uses the same mounts used on the 2.8 engine and the 4.3 Astro's. Similar 'Clam shell' style as some C4 Corvettes among others.
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-43-2wdRepacementMounts.html
I have been happy with the JTR HD conversion. It uses the same mounts used on the 2.8 engine and the 4.3 Astro's. Similar 'Clam shell' style as some C4 Corvettes among others.
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-43-2wdRepacementMounts.html
Davemc1963
93 Ty Owner
Re: Broken D/S motor mount...
The install was pretty straight forward. Some of the frame mounting bolts required having a good selection of spanners (wrenches). The biggest hassle was removing the bolts hidden by the old hardened Ty gm mounts that had sagged and made removing some of the mounting bolts difficult. I went the cherry picker route and lowered the front diff too,
I used the aftermarket mounts that came with the kit, but I reamed them out and swapped out the 7/16" bolts for 1/2", as the jtr mounts will accept them.
If I remember, I also removed the steering box and ldler arm bolts to push steering assembly out of the way to give more room..
There have been quite a few very helpful posts on here about it in the past that a search would bring up.
The install was pretty straight forward. Some of the frame mounting bolts required having a good selection of spanners (wrenches). The biggest hassle was removing the bolts hidden by the old hardened Ty gm mounts that had sagged and made removing some of the mounting bolts difficult. I went the cherry picker route and lowered the front diff too,
I used the aftermarket mounts that came with the kit, but I reamed them out and swapped out the 7/16" bolts for 1/2", as the jtr mounts will accept them.
If I remember, I also removed the steering box and ldler arm bolts to push steering assembly out of the way to give more room..
There have been quite a few very helpful posts on here about it in the past that a search would bring up.
gringo76
New member
Re: Broken D/S motor mount...
personally I used poly mounts. kinda a in between solids and factory. I just made a small heat shield around them with a air gap to keep the heat off and have no trouble so far. all in all what ever mount you go with its gonna be a bitch to change.
personally I used poly mounts. kinda a in between solids and factory. I just made a small heat shield around them with a air gap to keep the heat off and have no trouble so far. all in all what ever mount you go with its gonna be a bitch to change.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Broken D/S motor mount...
I used poly for 5k miles and they were sagging when I pulled the motor. I used the stock heat shields with an insulator and a heat blanket on top of those that covered top and side of the poly mounts. Maybe the sides restricted air flow but I wouldn't recommend them at all. If they melted on my garage queen that I am lucky to put 1000 miles/year on I do see them lasting in any application.
I used poly for 5k miles and they were sagging when I pulled the motor. I used the stock heat shields with an insulator and a heat blanket on top of those that covered top and side of the poly mounts. Maybe the sides restricted air flow but I wouldn't recommend them at all. If they melted on my garage queen that I am lucky to put 1000 miles/year on I do see them lasting in any application.