Hi, use to have one 3-4 years ago, sold that one and now bought a 1992 black Ty. The Ty has some minor smoke when I get punch the gas. The smoke seems to be comming from the dash/steering column area. The smoke goes away after about ten minutes of driving. The guy told me (bought on ebay, shipped) it was the vavle stem seal. So, he did tell me. My question is, is this a major problem and if so, how much would it be to fix it. Overall the car runs good (13-15 psi of boost). Thanks, Steve
Bought a Ty (smoke from dash/steering column)
- Thread starter 93 Ty
- Start date
TYRODD
My ass. Look at it.
Re: Bought a Ty (smoke from dash/steering column)
Do you mean smoke in the interior, or just under the hood?
A valve stem seal leak would be apparent with white smoke coming from the exhaust. An exhaust leak from the headers could produce smoke under the hood, but I think you would hear the leak as well :-?
Does it smell electrical?
93 Ty said:
Do you mean smoke in the interior, or just under the hood?
A valve stem seal leak would be apparent with white smoke coming from the exhaust. An exhaust leak from the headers could produce smoke under the hood, but I think you would hear the leak as well :-?
Does it smell electrical?
VermontTy
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Valve seals aren't a show-stopper by any means. They're cheap and easy to change out, and you can do it with the heads on the truck. They'll run a few dollars each. I know NAPA made seals that were OEM, then a hi-temp seal. A rough procedure for it.....
1. Take off valve cover
2. Take out the spark plug
3. Pressurize the cylinder (fitting that screws into spark plug hole and air compressor.
4. Remove rocker, compress valve spring, remove retainers, remove spring.
The seal will be sitting right there. Remove it, install a new one, reinstall spring, retainers, rocker, and retorque the rocker retainer nut. The old seals may be brittle, and break on removal; take care not to drop pieces down into the oil drainback holes in the head. Make sure to readjust all the valves when you're done. This should be covered in a Haynes or Chilton manual.
Sounds simplified here, but that's about all there is to it. Good luck.
1. Take off valve cover
2. Take out the spark plug
3. Pressurize the cylinder (fitting that screws into spark plug hole and air compressor.
4. Remove rocker, compress valve spring, remove retainers, remove spring.
The seal will be sitting right there. Remove it, install a new one, reinstall spring, retainers, rocker, and retorque the rocker retainer nut. The old seals may be brittle, and break on removal; take care not to drop pieces down into the oil drainback holes in the head. Make sure to readjust all the valves when you're done. This should be covered in a Haynes or Chilton manual.
Sounds simplified here, but that's about all there is to it. Good luck.
guys, thanks for the replys. The smoke does smell alittle like electrical. The smoke only appears when I hammer the gas and it comes from the steering column area, inside the vehicle. One more thing, where can I get a door key for my truck. It came with alarm keypad and an ignition key but no door key. Thanks, Steve
fiveoh
Enforcing traffic laws
the same thing happened in my truck, and i needed a rebuild to solve the problem as i burnt up the #4 cylinder piston. do a compression check and see if you have one bad cylinder, then do a leak down test to see if it is a stuck vavle or bad piston. im gonna be 95% stcuk on you are getting blow by from a collapsed ring or burnt piston and will need a rebuild.
this is jsut from my experience and could be wrong. for your benefit i hope i am wrong
hth
bryan
this is jsut from my experience and could be wrong. for your benefit i hope i am wrong
hth
bryan
VermontTy
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93 Ty said:
Take the VIN to a GM dealer with a copy of your title, or bill of sale and they can either make you a key, or at the very least give you the key code that you can take to a locksmith and have them make one for you....that is assuming your locks are OEM and have never been changed.
VermontTy
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Even then I'd still be skeptical. Unless I got the "engine has never been out" and you could see no silicone, bummed up bolt heads, painted block, etc., I would still be worried. I was lucky and knew every last detail about the engine when I bought my Ty. It was in the back seatJimmy said:
Its the ignition switch mounted on the top of the column up under the dash. I worked on a buddies Syclone that was doing the exact same thing. Looked like they replaced it at some point with an incorrect model that didn't have the proper retention device, causing it to come a bit loose, then causing it to burn the contacts at higher power demands... Not sure why it wasn't a problem all the time, but sounds like its the identical problem he had.
Hope this helps you out. (you may need both the switch itself as well as a new connector for it if the contacts look damaged at all, make sure to solder/hearshrink the replacement wiring if you go that route)
Hope this helps you out. (you may need both the switch itself as well as a new connector for it if the contacts look damaged at all, make sure to solder/hearshrink the replacement wiring if you go that route)
