block???
- Thread starter chadjett
- Start date
imported_ty1724
New member
bowtie block from gm expensive but the best imo
the stock blocks and cranks will work well if you don't expect more than reasonable power from it. if you want big power re-read the last post about the bowtie, and call mike lee. i think he has some already machined ones that are used.
you can have a lot of fun with a stock motor. and make it fast and reliabable too.
you want 800 horsepower, thats another story :wink:
you can have a lot of fun with a stock motor. and make it fast and reliabable too.
you want 800 horsepower, thats another story :wink:
myclone
Donating Member
Here ya go Dave.. Just follow the link below then scroll down to "Engine block" (I couldnt get a direct link to the engine block section to work, sorry). Theres some good reading/info in there and plenty of stuff that Id own if that money tree project would have done better :wink: .
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/performance_parts/store/catalog/Category.jhtmlCATID=273.html
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/performance_parts/store/catalog/Category.jhtmlCATID=273.html
midnightbluS10
Banned
go to gmpartsdirect.com and put 14011069 into the part # search.
GM PART # 14011069
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $4,843.54
OUR PRICE: $3,390.48
DESCRIPTION: CYL&CASE
THEMADTYPH00N
Active member
For that kinda money, I'll stick with my stock block. BTW is there a part number or something where you can buy a brand new stock block.
unless you are looking for a race engine, forget the new block and get yourself a good seasoned one. seasoned blocks are great over new ones sometimes.
if i had it to do over i think after everything was machined i would have every piece in the assemble cryoed. anyone know how much it costs to freeze all the pieces? theres a new technique that's supposed to be even better than cryoing. some type of impregnation process. i had a brochure on it and lost it but i'll get another one and post it.
john, did you spring for the new aluminum one??????????????? don't know whether to say "you da man" or "are you nuts" or "must be nice to be that rich" or what... i don't think i would ever let a nitrous bottle even close to my toy if you went with the aluminum. dang... i'm jealous. wish i could afford stuff like that
les
if i had it to do over i think after everything was machined i would have every piece in the assemble cryoed. anyone know how much it costs to freeze all the pieces? theres a new technique that's supposed to be even better than cryoing. some type of impregnation process. i had a brochure on it and lost it but i'll get another one and post it.
john, did you spring for the new aluminum one??????????????? don't know whether to say "you da man" or "are you nuts" or "must be nice to be that rich" or what... i don't think i would ever let a nitrous bottle even close to my toy if you went with the aluminum. dang... i'm jealous. wish i could afford stuff like that
les
midnightbluS10
Banned
THEMADTYPH00N said:
Looks to be part # 10205294
GMPartsDirect.com said:
jwaller
Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
100in6 said:john, did you spring for the new aluminum one??????????????? don't know whether to say "you da man" or "are you nuts" or "must be nice to be that rich" or what... i don't think i would ever let a nitrous bottle even close to my toy if you went with the aluminum. dang... i'm jealous. wish i could afford stuff like that
les
I got a new alum block old part# (but lighter than any of the new ones)from mike lee, so it wasn't that bad. and no I won't be using nitrous on this motor, just on the IC.
seasoned means to get an already used motor. the metal has been seasoned by using it. there is nothing at all wrong with going with a used motor, AS LONG AS YOU GET A GOOD ONE AND HAVE IT CHECKED AND MACHINED. go to a respectabel, if there is such a thing junkyard, and try to avoid motor that look like they have had overheating problems around the heads or no oil or other engine problems. something that came out of a vehicle that is totally body damage and doesn't have a million miles is something to look at. that way you get the crank, and maybe even some vortec heads and other stuff, depending on what the boneyard guy is like. i like to think that not everyone today is a crook. it seems to be gettin harder everyday to think like that though. i guess it depends where you live. before you buy anything shop around and get some prices and tell them what you want it for. then post for us to see and we'll help you to decide. about gettin one from mike lee, he's in california, the freight might not bee to bad for truck shipping, you wouldn't be gettin a piece of junk from mike, he's honest and known to all of us, the motor will have allready been checked out, he's honest and known to us, he know about these motors and is more of an authority than a juy who crushes cars for a living, he's honest and is known to us...
do you get what i'm saying...
do you get what i'm saying...
Tooky
Serious about performance
Chad I would check the VIN of the vehicle it came out of to make sure its a "Z" code vehicle with the LB4 block. You don't want the W block or L35 block or any other crap, the LB4 block works so I'd stick with that. I scored one longblock with 200,000 miles outta an 89 Blazer for free!! Hopefully you luck out too,
100in6 said:
I found a place in Mass. Thats will do the entire engine for 850 plus freight, and the guy has some nice coatings and such too. Heres a link to there site and there is also a complete price list.
http://www.hekimianracing.com
And as far as an advantage of the bowtie block is a bigger bore, the bowtie block can go from a stock 4" all the way to 4.125 or some of them as big as 4.155, the one i have is bored to 4.130 so with the stock stroke crank will be a 280 cube, not bad for just a bigger bore...IMO
Hope this info helps.
ed hess
race or get outta the way
I wouldnt touch one of those aluminum bowties.
from what i heard you need to use motor mount plates front and rear if your making a lot of power with aluminum. otherwise you can literally pull the mount studs out of the block or worse yet the mount area flexes which distorts everything....you go out and start making some power on it....next thing you know you are driving home and the motor comes apart. bummer huh!
ed
from what i heard you need to use motor mount plates front and rear if your making a lot of power with aluminum. otherwise you can literally pull the mount studs out of the block or worse yet the mount area flexes which distorts everything....you go out and start making some power on it....next thing you know you are driving home and the motor comes apart. bummer huh!
ed
