Battery Re-locater kit

George Blake

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: Battery Re-locater kit

OK. I was interested because of this:



I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
spacer.gif
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050. But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.
spacer.gif
This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.
Click to expand...



Now this is NHRA rules. So it looks like if I use the .120" sealed battery box, I can mount it inside as long as I run a cutoff switch. Maybe I'll use one of my old tail lights for this. I could run a rod through since I need only one working taillight and then drill through the cutoff switch and put the rod through it. Then drill the rod and put a cotter pin in the other side. This way it can be pushed pulled from the outside through the tail light and then I can swap back after the run. This way I can put the batter inside the Ty, and put the interior over it so it's not out in the open. I'm redoing the whole interior so it shouldn't matter. Passenger side by the wall and then kinda integrate it into the speaker enclosure.
 
TYHOGG

TYHOGG

Active member
Re: Battery Re-locater kit

George Blake said:
Where did you mount the battery at and which of the two boxes did you use?
Click to expand...

I used the "27" the larger of the 2 it fit my Optima red top perfect. I ended up using the top post on the battery since its near impossible to get to the side post once its in the box. I located it in the trunk oposite the spare tire. I'll try and get a pic up this week.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top